Grease vs Anti-Seize

cannondale king":3fdx4icw said:
but stevePSD treadlock relies on electrolitic corrosion to be set off like steel on alu creates by being two disimular metals(small electical charge that passes between metals that are different ie how batterys work for those who didn't know) arrhhh the debate is on any way copper slip works well and at the end of the day its a bike not a rolls royce olympus marine engine they are two completly different kettels of fish due to the introduction of saline solutions in the working atmostphire god i picked up some usless info while i was in the navy :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Merchant or Royal cannondale king?
 
cannondale king":1qlhhrju said:
but stevePSD treadlock relies on electrolitic corrosion to be set off like steel on alu creates by being two disimular metals(small electical charge that passes between metals that are different ie how batterys work for those who didn't know) arrhhh the debate is on any way copper slip works well and at the end of the day its a bike not a rolls royce olympus marine engine they are two completly different kettels of fish due to the introduction of saline solutions in the working atmostphire god i picked up some usless info while i was in the navy :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

But one should add, we may have a lot of salt on our roads during winter, and we may get a lot of corrosion and seizing due to wet winter roads which are gritted and such, my mates M2 was pitted around the dropouts, BB and headtube, seat post and BB seized. Some commuting bikes put up with a lot.

I myself prefer copper slip, and I have a thicker rougher compound anti seize for Ti, though regular maintenance and regular grease with regular cleaning also does the job in most cases. The worst materials I have found for putting together have been M2 metal matrix, carbon and titanium, though cheap alloy fixings can be a bugger too, most of the problems arise with these materials due to lack of grease or inappropriate compound being used, to just being poorly looked after and badly fitted. like all bike parts these materials benefit from regular removing,cleaning and maintenance.
 
cannondale king":1wkzoknr said:
but stevePSD treadlock relies on electrolitic corrosion to be set off like steel on alu creates by being two disimular metals :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Threadlocking compounds are anaerobic adhesives - ie. it is the exclusion of oxygen that initiates curing. Thats why the bottles they are supplied in are so large for the quantity they actually contain - to reduce the possibility of curing in the container.
 
Icase you don't know Titanium and stainless( I believe I was told) has tiny spikes and troughs, the spikes can the break off and cause the sufaces to seize.

I watched an open uni programme years ago where they had two pieces of titanium on a jig and erm jiggled them about, iin the end they welded themselves to each other and that could not be broken easily...

Copperslip is supposed to fill the gaps and that is what stops the seizing...

I even had a set of wheels built and had copperslip put on the pokes before building.. best wheels I have ever used......
 
South Bound":3hytbz7w said:
Am nearly at the stage of putting all the bits of my project together and have a healthy mix of steel, Alu and Ti bits to put together. I some some decent quality grease, but is there anything special I should be using anywhere?

I get Anti-seize for Ti-parts, and grease for everything else...and I don't overtighten...oh yeah, and I untighten, clean and relube every now & then.

and like a few others have stated, go with the universal stuff to avoid markups for bike specific stuff, unless you don't do it often, the give some support to the bike specific stuff and it should last you a while anyway.
 
I only ever use antiseize when both surfaces are Ti, otherwise I just use a teflon-based grease.
 
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