GOT - Suspension Forks for Orange Clockwork (1991)

[poolio]

A'noon all!

Been using a Clockwork (given to me by a mate in 9 for many moons as a commuter bike with the odd bit of light offroad, but starting to wander down more bumpy routes and the residual wrist/elbow/brain shake is doing me in - time to put some of that suspension on the old beastie methinks...

A few mates have advised that I need 1" rather than 1 1/8th inch stem(PACE has been recommended), all sounds a bit like foreign to me - what do I need, additional headset or other bits too? Can anyone suggest any kit / brands / sizes / parts / reference etc.. that would do the trick, or general spec so that I could search the old eBay.

Cheers
Poo

 

[brocklanders023]

Hello Poolio. I've got a set of Pace RC35's that could do the job. Another member has first dibs but if he doesn't have 'em I'll let you know.

As for what you'll need.... All depends on what your set up is at the moment. Get some pics up and we'll have a look.

 

[BoyBurning]

Pics would be best as suggested, in order to determine what you might be after.

If suitable, I have some AMP F3 forks.

1" threaded. New decals, excellent condition.

Give me a shout if interested.

 

[poolio]

Orange Clockwork - c1994 images

OK,
Here's some snaps I've just taken of the neglected looking thing....
You can see the orange paint through the multiple chips in the matt black paint job I got my mate to do - courtesy of a real Lord!

I can't find the elusive frame number anywhere... where should I look?

As I recall, I changed the largest front cog several moons since, to allow me to go a bit faster, it transpired that the orig derailleur didn't fit so I thin I got a larger arm fitted - still got the old one (one of the piccys).

I also put a variable angled headset on it, I've still got the old one too (same piccy).

I measured a few bits too:
The steerer neck is 120mm, the crossbar is 550mm, the pole from crank to steerer is 600mm, from crank to rear axle is 440mm and from rear axle to saddle pole is 470mm - does that make it a 19" frame?

The forks are 250mm from axle to crown, the threaded steerer bit is 170mm long.

I've taken a swathe of photos, all sitting in Photobucket peruse through and feed me with your knowledge please...

Folder of images:
http://s953.photobucket.com/albums/ae12 ... Clockwork/

And here they all are.....

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[Fudd]

You should find the frame number stamped into the bottom bracket shell. Well you should be able to see it but that paint might be a bit thick

For the frame size you need to measure from the center of the BB to the center of the top tube where it meets the seat tube.

As for the forks, you want to be looking for something with no more than about 80mm travel or you'll mess up the whole geometry of the bike. Other than that it all depends on your budget and whats available with a 1" threaded steering tube.

I'd personally be looking at Pace RC35's with the coil springs as opposed to the earlier elastomer type. You can pick these up for under £100 but you need to be careful as they were never the most reliable and rebuilds these days can be expensive.

 

[Fudd]

And judging by them pics I think you should probably get a new headset as well. Maybe buy a new stem too and go threadless. That way you'll have a lighter more modern set up and there's probably more forks to chose from with threadless steerers out there.

 

[MikeC]

I've got some 1" Pace forks on my sale thread. If the steerer tube is too short then it is replacable and this very forum has a steerer swaps area.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=90945

If you aren't running V brakes then you'd need a canti rocker, but they can often be picked up on here too...or I can sell you some Vs too if you like, bargain basement price if you buy the forks...

 

[poolio]

New Forks... where do the brakes go..?!

Doh!

Won some RockShox from t'Bay (£ thought I was on to a winner... but.. well ermm..

There's no mount for the brakes, there's some smooth blank circular plate/pads where they might go..? see piccy:

Looking at the new geometry of the bike, the headset now seems about 90mm higher (old and new forks are in piccy below) - could this be a problem?

I've also noticed that there is no lower bearing mounting cup(?) on the RockShox for the lower bearing race - which was present on the old orange stem.

Can this be removed from the Orange - seems very well attached!!

Whilst attaching the new forks I've also managed to pop the threaded stem through the top of the capping bolt, only by a few mm...

fortunately I have a spare, pictured next to the bit of the bolt that I forced out:

Would this have happened if I had the correct lower mounting cup? or is a spacer needed??...

Bad things have happened financially this month so those Pace35s are still on hold (sorry MikeC), maybe next month eh?!

Cheers all
JP

 

[poolio]

There's no mount for the brakes, there's some smooth blank circular plate/pads where they might go..? see piccy:

Just realised you can't attach my original brakes to a suspension fork, as when the suspension is compressed there will be slack in the cable - ergo no braking!

What are the options to remedy this?

JP

 

[Charlieboy28]

hmmmmmmmmmm

hi ya poolio, no expert here but it looks like your trying to put threadless forks into a threaded headset, you will need a new threadless headset, you will then need a new stem also,

or you could look for some threaded suspension forks

from the age of the bike and its original forks, you want a much smaller travel fork, perhaps 80mm or less, a suspension fork fro mthis period is more likely to have this amount of travel anyway, as is a threaded suspension fork. the bike will handle like a bollox with that amount of travel

also the older suspension forks for cantilever brakes,got round the problem you describe by having the canti bridge attached to the fork lowers.

those forks are disc specific however it would seem, that is not canti/ v brake set up is gonna work without some major metal work going on.

the cheapets option would be to go for a threaded fork, with less travel designed for canti brakes.

loads of people her can help advise you to the correct fork etc, so jus task,

good luck

charlieboy