Gearing issue on Frankenstein bike

Skeg131

Dirt Disciple
So today I picked up my new toy, I knew there were gear issues but it isn't quite as simple as sorting the indexing!

The bike is a 1986 Mercian and the gears are 105 but it has a 5 speed shimano freewheel on a Campag hub. This definitely seems wrong to me! I didn't think 105 came in 5 speed and surely Campag hub should have a Campag freewheel?

The drops are 120mm and I'm after a bit of advice about how best to proceed, I definitely want gears and preferably indexed.

My questions are:

1. Are there any indexed gears for 120mm drops? If not what are your recommendations? If I paid someone (Argos) to set the spacing to 130mm how much am I likely to be looking at and is it worth it?
2. How can I check what speed the 105 setup is? The levers click 7 times if I push them all the way forward then pull them all the way back, the first click seems quite pronounced. The rear dereailleur has integrated 8 marked on it.
 
sounds like someone has either stuffed any old wheel in the back (and you're lucky it's campag) or an older frame has been upgraded but only half way by using 7/8 speed levers on the friction mode so they'll work with 5 speed.

pics would help though.
 
If it's 5 speed then Campag didn't make a screw on freewheel of that configuration (only 8 speed?) so it would have to be something else. A Shimano one is as good as any. The 105 mech will work with most of the 'speed' variations depending on which model it is. It's only a question of adjusting the travel stop screws to suit and using it in friction mode if the indexing won't work. However, 5 to 7 speed all use the same sprocket spacings so a 7 speed index lever should work a 5. You will be struggling to get any more than 5 speed to fit into 120mm wide dropouts unless you find a Compact 6 screw on block and then the indexing definitely won't work. Standard 6 speed uses a 126 spacing and 7 and above a 130. Spreading a 120 frame to 130 is a bit of an ask TBH.
 
I suspect the wheels are original, could be wrong though.

I'll get pictures of the shifters and dérailleur up later.

If I were to spread the drops I'd use Argos to ensure it's done properly.

I'm currently thinking of buying an old 8 speed pinching the wheels and gears and then selling it stripped afterwards. Hmmmmmm
 
Got a few pics now which I've put a little further below

The shifter clearly says 7s so I'd assume 7 speed shifter. The derailleur says integrated 8, does this mean I've got a mismatching 8 speed derailleur is it that the design name?

I'm thinking of widening the drops to 130mm (Argos will do the work), if I do this I'll need to put 8 speed on it though.

IMG_8547-1.jpg


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IMG_8554.jpg
 
The build looks like a bitsa (bits-of-this, bits of that) Unusual that someone would build a 120mm OLN rear end on a frame in 1986 when the norm was 126mm - Argos charge £30 for resetting a frame to 130mm. The rear wheel / hub is probably older than 86 too. The Shimano 105 parts look like 1055 series which is 1990-ish - if you have 7 clicks on the shifter then it'll work with 8 speed.
 
The Hub looks like a Nuovo Tipo with a Record quick release skewer......

They became hard to sell in the mid 70's (if you were in a bike shop) as they had circular holes rather that oval holes of the Record hubs which were seen as much more desirable.......

Shaun
 
5 and 6 speed generally had 5.5mm gear pitch, whereas 7 speed is 5mm. So you are likely to have trouble with indexing. Frankly with cogs that far apart friction is fine.
 
Have to second Hamster on this my friend re: friction is fine. Why bother with indexing at all ? Bottom line is you have 1 helluva job to make this frame/bike "perfect" again. Any money you spend widening the rear is wasted IMHO. Then you'll need a new block/wheel/respacing of the original rear axle to match. All that hassle just to get a £5 set of indexed gear levers working ? Turn the dial back to friction and ride it :-)

In truth you're just opening a large can of worms that a small post from me can't relay to you clearly. ie:

block spacing
axle spacing
rear stays spacing
chains to match the new block
6speed/7speed/8speed

The bike is spattered with mismatched/odd manufacturer parts. Someone has built it to ride. You bought it because it was cheap buddy, so why even dream of spending anything to fix something that isn't actually broken ? Turn the friction back, and have some fun, I promise you it'll ride just as easy as with indexing :-)

I have indexing on some of my bikes, but I hate it's finicky and tempremental nature, so I switched it off on all of them. Friction never fails me (after 30+ years riding I am used to it though) + I can switch rear wheels when I want to without resetting the bloody indexing.

Later buddy, yours Laz.
 
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