Front Mech Prob - SORTED!!! Last post is worth a quick read
- Thread starter TGR
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Re: Front Mech Prob - hopefully simple fix - help (again ple
Richard, maybe a pinch bolt from a brake caliper might work? They often have one side quite "flat" to not catch on anything, and the other side has a domed nut. something like this maybe? (just a pic found quickly on the itnternet, there are better looking ones out there!) It might not look quite right, but I think you could get it to work and not look too "wrong"!
Richard, maybe a pinch bolt from a brake caliper might work? They often have one side quite "flat" to not catch on anything, and the other side has a domed nut. something like this maybe? (just a pic found quickly on the itnternet, there are better looking ones out there!) It might not look quite right, but I think you could get it to work and not look too "wrong"!
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Re: Front Mech Prob - hopefully simple fix - help (again ple
Go for same idea as shimano saddle bolt?
Go for same idea as shimano saddle bolt?
torqueless
Senior Retro Guru
Re: Front Mech Prob - hopefully simple fix - help (again ple
Fouling-You need to make sure that during operation there will be clearance between whatever 'bolt' secures your cable, and the back of the band that attaches the mech to the seat tube. For that reason, a pinch-bolt might have to go in from the other side, 'cause the flat 'head' is less likely to foul than the other end with the nut. Pinch bolt is probably too fat to go through the hole anyway- and if you want to use one you'd be better off filing away the shaft of the bolt, or drilling a cable-sized hole in a bolt that does fit in the hole, rather than drilling the hole in the mech arm bigger, 'cause you may one day say to yourself: "F
k this pinch bolt- I'm going to re-tap the thread in the hole in the mech arm instead", but because you drilled it out to take the fat pinch bolt, there's hardly ant metal left to tap...
Tapping-(re)cutting a thread inside a cylindrical hole. Tap- A tool for accomplishing this.
Die-A tool for (re)cutting a thread on the outside of a cylinder.
Both come in many sizes, metric or imperial.
Fouling-You need to make sure that during operation there will be clearance between whatever 'bolt' secures your cable, and the back of the band that attaches the mech to the seat tube. For that reason, a pinch-bolt might have to go in from the other side, 'cause the flat 'head' is less likely to foul than the other end with the nut. Pinch bolt is probably too fat to go through the hole anyway- and if you want to use one you'd be better off filing away the shaft of the bolt, or drilling a cable-sized hole in a bolt that does fit in the hole, rather than drilling the hole in the mech arm bigger, 'cause you may one day say to yourself: "F
k this pinch bolt- I'm going to re-tap the thread in the hole in the mech arm instead", but because you drilled it out to take the fat pinch bolt, there's hardly ant metal left to tap...Tapping-(re)cutting a thread inside a cylindrical hole. Tap- A tool for accomplishing this.
Die-A tool for (re)cutting a thread on the outside of a cylinder.
Both come in many sizes, metric or imperial.
Re: Front Mech Prob - hopefully simple fix - help (again ple
Fouling usually concerns pavements and dog poo I believe. Back to the FD....if it was me, I'd tap it with
a metric size about 0.5 or even 1mm bigger than it is already. There's plenty material there to take a bigger bolt IMHO.
You could also commit a RB sin and upgrade it to an allen hex bolt. The worst that could happen is the FD arm snaps -
which I doubt would result in a crash and burn fire ball.
Fouling usually concerns pavements and dog poo I believe. Back to the FD....if it was me, I'd tap it with
a metric size about 0.5 or even 1mm bigger than it is already. There's plenty material there to take a bigger bolt IMHO.
You could also commit a RB sin and upgrade it to an allen hex bolt. The worst that could happen is the FD arm snaps -
which I doubt would result in a crash and burn fire ball.
Blacktopdisciple
Retro Guru
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Re: Front Mech Prob - hopefully simple fix - help (again ple
I think I have that part. Compared mine with your photograph and it looks identical. Thread is good. Cover the postage and you can have it.
I think I have that part. Compared mine with your photograph and it looks identical. Thread is good. Cover the postage and you can have it.
torqueless
Senior Retro Guru
Re: Front Mech Prob - hopefully simple fix - help (again ple
Failing that, as a stop-gap, get a bolt of smaller diameter that will pass through the hole without the threads engaging at all. Get a nut and washer that fit the bolt, and you'll probably get away with trapping the cable between the washer and the mech arm. You may need three hands.. :| That's just one reason why you are better off re-tapping the hole to accept a slightly larger diameter bolt. If you can drill a cable-sized hole in the bolt you might get by with two hands..
I'm assuming the existing bolt is steel going into an alloy mech arm, and that therefore it's the mech arm thread that is damaged rather than the bolt thread?
To accept an offer you cannot refuse from Blacktopdisciple...
Failing that, as a stop-gap, get a bolt of smaller diameter that will pass through the hole without the threads engaging at all. Get a nut and washer that fit the bolt, and you'll probably get away with trapping the cable between the washer and the mech arm. You may need three hands.. :| That's just one reason why you are better off re-tapping the hole to accept a slightly larger diameter bolt. If you can drill a cable-sized hole in the bolt you might get by with two hands..
I'm assuming the existing bolt is steel going into an alloy mech arm, and that therefore it's the mech arm thread that is damaged rather than the bolt thread?
Re: Front Mech Prob - hopefully simple fix - help (again ple
Morning Torqueless,
I have accepted the fantastic offer from Blacktopdisciple.
The mech arm thread is the damaged one, so I presume it was a steel srew which did the damage to the alloy.
I am still not accepting responsibility for causing the damage as i was careful when tightening.
Richard
Morning Torqueless,
I have accepted the fantastic offer from Blacktopdisciple.
The mech arm thread is the damaged one, so I presume it was a steel srew which did the damage to the alloy.
I am still not accepting responsibility for causing the damage as i was careful when tightening.
Richard
