frame sizes

On One top tubes are loooong. Great for roomy cockpit stomping but meant that I could not get far enough back on really steep downhills even with the seat dropped. Number of times that saddle smashed me in the nads!!
 
Dr S":3p794j5k said:
On One top tubes are loooong. Great for roomy cockpit stomping but meant that I could not get far enough back on really steep downhills even with the seat dropped. Number of times that saddle smashed me in the nads!!

I am of the opinion that when on retro bikes BPM has nothing to do with heart rate. It's actually the number of times your (un)happy sacs hit the saddle.
 
Whether or not the 21.5 figure is correct, the fact remains that Gaz decided that his riding position was too short on an 18c-c frame.

Worth remembering that his 90-92 bikes were designed for rigid forks and long stems, 150 or more on the bigger sizes. So in those days top tubes were a bit shorter than they became in the mid 90s when suspension and shorter stems came along. e.g., the tt 23.0 for a Kona size 18 was designed to go with a c120 stem.

Then along came G Fisher in the late 90s with the Genesis hype and top tubes got even longer, stems even shorter and that's where the geometry used by On-One and Cotic to suit 100mm+ forks came from.
 
Gaz is no shorty right enough and thus an 18 frame is possibly too small.

Oh dear I think I see Gaz embarking on yet another credit crunch thumping bike hunt :lol:

Any excuse for a new bike :wink:
 
My Breezer was too short but a long stem totally buggered up the handling, so I fitted a Titec ultra-laid-back DH seatpost [the bent one,'HellBent'?] Surprisingly the ride's fine. A bit er..laid back and it does disencourage standing up, but traction's great and the back pain's gone. Looks cool too!
 
My bike and I both err on the freakier side of sizing, and I like to tinker with different stem/saddle/post/bar setups: I find they all have merits and draw backs.

As a rule of thumb, I tend to set up with my knee in line with the pedal when the crank is at its furthest point forward [90 to the vertical], sitting down. Saw it in a mag once BITD.

But beyond liking a long TT, I don't seem as sensitive to the impact on handling that stem length has as some of you fellows.

What's the consensus on where the grips should be in relation to the front axle: i.e if you took a plumb line down from your grip position, how far aft, or maybe fore of the front axle do you prefer :?:
 
Numbers are in

Clockwork is 18 inch Centre BB to cetre of top tube- pretty flat top tube 19 inchest to seatpost. Toptube was 22 inch centre of Headtube to centre of seatpost. I can just about live with this bike as it has a 110 flexstem so might just avoid the cull velo :wink:

Cannondale killer v was 18 inch and 21 1/5 inch straight across and def. feels cramped, it is my race bike :lol: :lol: so will live with it, mind you haggis's xyz might sort out this issue.

Muddy fox is 18 inch and again 21.5 inch and is a bity tight to :(

Sbike is 19 inch and 22.5 and with a long kore stem and mary bars seems a good fit.

So it would seem that I should really be riding 19 inch bikes :evil:

Might try the laid back post ferrus (like all my bikes and can't see me selling unless I was doing a straight swap). I always have the saddle as far back as I can might balance me out abit?

Thanks for the advice lads.
 
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