Fork length for mid 90s MTB frame >> tourer conversion

Bodhbh

Retro Newbie
Hi all, first post - please go easy on me!

I'm looking get a mid-90s MTB steel frame and build it up for touring/commuting/dirt track use. Ideally like to run a disc fork up front with rack mounts - i.e. a surly disc trucker or 1x1 fork - but getting totally bogged down with what A-C fork length I need. I'm looking at both early 1990s frames like the Kona Joe Murry Lava Dome or Marin Eldrige Grade, and later ones like a 1997 Kona Cindercone. Broadly speaking am I right in thinking -

Early-mid 90s frames need ~390mm A-C forks (i.e. non-suss corrected)
Mid-late 90s frames need ~410mm A-C forks (i.e. suss corrected for 60-80mm travel)

And how big of a deal on handling if they're not spot on?

Also...to a know nothing like me, most of the mid-90s frames look good for building up to a touring rig (rack mounts + 2 bottle mounts + not too low and long). Are any particularly suited to this job?
 
Re:

I don't think the LHT fork is designed for hardcore mtb, and the 1x1 does not have the holes for a low-rider rack. The fork that would suit all your needs would be the one the Troll uses, but that is way too high for a retro frame.

I only do touring with old bikes (I would never spend too much money in a bike that will get mistreated by airlines and Indian truck drivers), and I would tell you not to complicate yourself too much with the fork and go with whatever the bike already has (rigid if possible).

-most "hardcore" tourers prefer to avoid (hydraulic) disks because of their not so easy on-the-road repairs.
-you can get away with no holes for the rack in the fork. Plenty of solutions available, even provided by the rack manufacturers themselves (check with Tubus or Old Man Mountain)

Regarding what bike is good for a conversion, I would say nearly ANY bike, as long as it has a rigid fork, standard fittings (run away from proprietary components), and it's comfortable. You will most likely have to change the stem to something shorter and higher to get a position that will allow you to remain on the bike for several hours without too much pain.

I'm just back from a 3 week tour in the Indian Himalaya, and I just used a second hand bike I bought for 30 EUR. Did the job without complaints
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=327613

Last year I went to Cuba for a month with a Bergamont mtb, a full rigid bike from 1993 with Altus drivetrain which costed me 75 EUR used. Again, zero issues. Of course I do a full re-build before the trip to ensure everything works or gets replaced/fixed.

The 90 EUR of a Surly fork can offer you a "one week all-inclusive package" on the back roads of any country in South Asia. Better spend it there! :)
 
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