fat chance decals help!
- Thread starter billinjah
- Start date
monsterfatuk
Senior Retro Guru
decals
Brings back memories LOL,i used some originals for my monster like 10 years ago,you put them in position and wet them with a sponge ,them move them slightly if you wish,dab them with a dry cloth and let em dry
But if from rody,(new ones) you just place them on ,rub them,and peel off the paper
Brings back memories LOL,i used some originals for my monster like 10 years ago,you put them in position and wet them with a sponge ,them move them slightly if you wish,dab them with a dry cloth and let em dry
But if from rody,(new ones) you just place them on ,rub them,and peel off the paper
monsterfatuk
Senior Retro Guru
yep cut out, place them on,and wet em
REPOST from Fat Cogs...
Hey guy,
If they are truly originals from sss, then you've got one shot to get these right, so let's be careful
First off, prepare yourself. Put on some lint free clothing and use tight fitting latex gloves on your hands to protect the base surface from oil contamination. Clean the frame well with Acetone or MEK, both quick evaporating solvents to insure that the surface is free from all contaminants.
Next up, these decals are over 12 years old and are extremely fragile so proceed with confindence and caution
The decal will have three parts, a back layer that is made of firmer card stock, a transfer sheet on top of thinner clear material, and the actual decal sandwiched in between.
Remove the back layer (which may have already fallen free) to expose the rear of the decal and transfer sheet. This will not feel too tacky, but you must keep it clean. Gripping the decal from the lateral edges on both ends, gently place the decal on the frame and run your gloved finger across the middle laterally to set the center of the decal in place (the top and bottom edges will not be touching the round tube). Begin from the center of the decal and smooth down to the tube moving in one direction at a time. I use both thumbs and smooth the top of the decal to the tube then the bottom. Once the decal is flush on the tubing, use a blunt smooth object (I like to use a round derlin rod) and "debase" the decal by slowly rubbing it uniformily over the entire surface area. Be very careful here, as if you pull the transfer sheet the decal will wrest free and leave nothing but fragmentation in it's wake. Continue to debase for about 90 seconds until you have uniform coverage.
Beginning at one lateral edge, pull the transfer sheet 180 degrees back over it's self SLOWLY. DO NOT PULL STRAIGHT UP.
Take care to watch all edges of the decal as you remove the transfer sheet to insure they are coming free. If they begin to lift or tear, you have not debased that area sufficiently, lay the sheet back down and rub some more.
Continue to repeat until you have a rebadged masterpiece
FWIW, only the early Fat decals were waterslide. After about 88, the dry transfer decals made by SSS were prevelant.
Good luck,
rody
Hey guy,
If they are truly originals from sss, then you've got one shot to get these right, so let's be careful
First off, prepare yourself. Put on some lint free clothing and use tight fitting latex gloves on your hands to protect the base surface from oil contamination. Clean the frame well with Acetone or MEK, both quick evaporating solvents to insure that the surface is free from all contaminants.
Next up, these decals are over 12 years old and are extremely fragile so proceed with confindence and caution
The decal will have three parts, a back layer that is made of firmer card stock, a transfer sheet on top of thinner clear material, and the actual decal sandwiched in between.
Remove the back layer (which may have already fallen free) to expose the rear of the decal and transfer sheet. This will not feel too tacky, but you must keep it clean. Gripping the decal from the lateral edges on both ends, gently place the decal on the frame and run your gloved finger across the middle laterally to set the center of the decal in place (the top and bottom edges will not be touching the round tube). Begin from the center of the decal and smooth down to the tube moving in one direction at a time. I use both thumbs and smooth the top of the decal to the tube then the bottom. Once the decal is flush on the tubing, use a blunt smooth object (I like to use a round derlin rod) and "debase" the decal by slowly rubbing it uniformily over the entire surface area. Be very careful here, as if you pull the transfer sheet the decal will wrest free and leave nothing but fragmentation in it's wake. Continue to debase for about 90 seconds until you have uniform coverage.
Beginning at one lateral edge, pull the transfer sheet 180 degrees back over it's self SLOWLY. DO NOT PULL STRAIGHT UP.
Take care to watch all edges of the decal as you remove the transfer sheet to insure they are coming free. If they begin to lift or tear, you have not debased that area sufficiently, lay the sheet back down and rub some more.
Continue to repeat until you have a rebadged masterpiece
FWIW, only the early Fat decals were waterslide. After about 88, the dry transfer decals made by SSS were prevelant.
Good luck,
rody
thanks rody this sounds complicated but im sure im all over it! one thing my decals the decal is face down onto the card peice the transfer paper (or not in this case) peels off to reval the underside of the decal this seems to be the reverse of what you said? do i leav the decal on the card and use the card as the transfer paper? as if i left it on the thinner opaque paper the deal is the wrong way round hope this makes sense?
Thanks for the pic...you should be ok.
There is actually a super thin transfer layer between that card and the decal. Try to gently get in between the two with an exacto knife and it will lift free.
I've got an old set of Wickeds that are set up the same way.
The part you are shown lifting away in the pics is the part you MUST keep dirt free, so if you have not already, put it back!
So, when you are ready, peel off the back layer, peel from the card stock, then apply, debase and remove the transfer sheet.
Best of Luck,
rody
There is actually a super thin transfer layer between that card and the decal. Try to gently get in between the two with an exacto knife and it will lift free.
I've got an old set of Wickeds that are set up the same way.
The part you are shown lifting away in the pics is the part you MUST keep dirt free, so if you have not already, put it back!
So, when you are ready, peel off the back layer, peel from the card stock, then apply, debase and remove the transfer sheet.
Best of Luck,
rody
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