Disc brakes?

Lid":3oog2i2g said:
The final point on this is you must take into consideration that a rim brake's design has only one outcome: wheel failure. The brakes literally WEAR away the rim untill the wheel fails. How stupid is that!?!

yes it is a pain having to replace worn rims but it is a very efficient packaging scheme - there is a lot less force transfered through the spoeks so a lower spoke count and radial lacing to make light wheel can be used.
 
The Ken":22ymo2f2 said:
I think it is pretty poor that the avid BB7 can need adjusted during a ride in order to work properly, does it not have a floating caliper? Surely the lever can take up the minimal wear of a pad or are they made of cheese and wear that quickly?

I've never needed to adjust a BB7 during a ride. :?
 
I only said because it was mentioned in here, http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... 473#869473, I was quite surprised.
I don't think I adjust my cable hope more than once a year, pads last about 2 years, they are fairly thick though and the disk is 5mm thick hardened steel.
Levers are canti ones so the pull might not be as much, would that mean the slack is just less noticable?
 
Some top advice here, really helpful in helping me to make my confused mind up.

My inclination, irrationally, was cable discs from the off and I have tried my mates Shimano cable discs and they seemed more than adequate for me. I also asked in the LBS and they heartily recommended BB7s. That, couple with the advice in this thread, means that it looks like BB7s are the ones for me.
 
ededwards":2f6mpezm said:
I also asked in the LBS and they heartily recommended BB7s. That, couple with the advice in this thread, means that it looks like BB7s are the ones for me.


Good choice. I own 7 wheels worth of BB7s, installed on four bikes, and I've never been let down. 8)
 
I recently tried BB7's for the first time and was VERY impressed.
Super simple to set up and worked sharply out of the box.
Also they are cheaper than almost every hydro option.

Its already been established that im one of the heaviest riders here, and for serious off roading i use Avid Elixir's.
Having previously had brakes fade on me on steep downhill's to the point of complete brake power loss (very hairy)...I wont except anything less than the Elixirs.
Every time I use them to slow down from high speed they astonish me, and all using one or two fingers.

Personally ive always found Hope brakes fiddly and maintainance hungry.
Ive also had good results from XTR.

I dont think you can be disappointed with BB7's, and ill be using them frequently from now on.
However, I also love the modulation and 'feel' that a hydro lever gives, no cable lever can match that.

Also, BB7's only actuate one piston, essentially using one pad to push/bend the rotor onto the other pad. Whereas hydro's use two (or more) pistons each pushing a pad onto the rotor... I feel this method adds power and modulation by coming into contact with the rotor perfectly square.
I was disappointed when I first realised this with the BB7's, but when i first dialled them in (simplicity itself), I was no longer worried.
Worst thing about BB7's is they are fairly heavy.
 
dyna-ti":1bdogo2a said:
On more than one occasion, I damaged the rotors and had to carry the front of the bike home.
Damaged how Chris :?

It's quite easy to bend a rotor. And while it's not generally an issue to put them back into shape, it is a faff.

The answer is really an efficient version of the drum brake, as used on Clelands. A pity it was never developed at a reasonable price.
 
chris667":3oer79aa said:
It's quite easy to bend a rotor. And while it's not generally an issue to put them back into shape, it is a faff.

I ain't bending this anytime soon...
img_0066_201.jpg
 
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