BG
Retro Guru
I bought a Diamond Back Axis frame off here a while back and have finally gotten around to doing some work on it - starting with a repaint.
It had a small dent under the top tube from a tool being dropped on it (bummer) so I sanded it back and filled it with some solder - as I'd seen this documented on the web. It worked fine.
I took the frame to get it sandblasted this morning - fine, though they said I'd have to mask off the solder as it'd be removed by the blasting. All good.
I then drove a few blocks to the powdercoater I'd teed-up. All good until they saw the solder: 'that'll melt and make a mess when we put it in the oven at 200 degrees C - you should have used plastibond or a spot weld'. Great - just great. I had plastibond sitting there and i went with the solder as I'd read powdercoat doesn't stick to the plastic as well as the metal so may peel off.
Long story short - I've now got a bloke spraying it in 2-pac for twice what I'd had quoted on for the powdercoat.
So a word of warning don't use solder to smooth out dents if you want to powdercoat your frame.
It had a small dent under the top tube from a tool being dropped on it (bummer) so I sanded it back and filled it with some solder - as I'd seen this documented on the web. It worked fine.
I took the frame to get it sandblasted this morning - fine, though they said I'd have to mask off the solder as it'd be removed by the blasting. All good.
I then drove a few blocks to the powdercoater I'd teed-up. All good until they saw the solder: 'that'll melt and make a mess when we put it in the oven at 200 degrees C - you should have used plastibond or a spot weld'. Great - just great. I had plastibond sitting there and i went with the solder as I'd read powdercoat doesn't stick to the plastic as well as the metal so may peel off.
Long story short - I've now got a bloke spraying it in 2-pac for twice what I'd had quoted on for the powdercoat.
So a word of warning don't use solder to smooth out dents if you want to powdercoat your frame.