Can steerer tube be made longer?
- Thread starter Jimmy2021
- Start date
Retrorockit
Retro Guru
My converted Ebike is a "Comfort " bike (2004 Gary Fisher Solstice) the 26" wheels and upright riding position give it a steerer tube that's 12" long.
The Coil and oil Rockshox fork it came with is still going strong. But there's no way I'm going to find another fork to fit this bike. I keep a 300mm steerer from Hollandbike around just in case of an incident. If it was steel on steel I would say go with the threaded rod method. But for alloy, and a part that's not going to be easy to replace I would pay to have it done. Cooling with dry ice, proper assembly fluid, heating with an air gun instead of a gas torch, a hydraulic press, and experience doing that work all count for something.
Uncut 26" forks are getting rare, and XC forks tend to be cut shorter than most.
The Coil and oil Rockshox fork it came with is still going strong. But there's no way I'm going to find another fork to fit this bike. I keep a 300mm steerer from Hollandbike around just in case of an incident. If it was steel on steel I would say go with the threaded rod method. But for alloy, and a part that's not going to be easy to replace I would pay to have it done. Cooling with dry ice, proper assembly fluid, heating with an air gun instead of a gas torch, a hydraulic press, and experience doing that work all count for something.
Uncut 26" forks are getting rare, and XC forks tend to be cut shorter than most.
Ok, next idea.
My friend suggested this and I fail to understand why it won't be suitable considering that it goes down the tube by 43mm and tightens at 360⁰.
Thoughts please.
https://www.temu.com/uk/bicycle-handlebar-stem-height-extender-1-1-8-28-6mm-alloy-fork-hidden-riser-mtb-road-bike-fork-stem-extension-stem-extender-g-601099873162248.html?_oak_name_id=7234521168011653505&_oak_mp_inf=EIioqMOn1ogBGiBkZmZjNDljZmI0ZTU0ZTdmODQ5MWQ1Yjk5MDc3YmM0ZiCgqq78jzM=&thumb_url=https://img.kwcdn.com/product/fancy/54b31ab1-1982-4d74-bb1c-06dd5d7aa754.jpg?imageView2/2/w/500/q/60/format/webp&_web_cover=thumb_url&pic_h=800&pic_w=800&spec_gallery_id=38888&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=10001&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=NTM2&_oak_gallery_order=281329217,783636479,48041009,2146319525,935941293&refer_page_el_sn=200049&from_rec=1&enable_cache=1&_x_sessn_id=03qz7nhq3l&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1756633756960_akhpgc3bo9
My friend suggested this and I fail to understand why it won't be suitable considering that it goes down the tube by 43mm and tightens at 360⁰.
Thoughts please.
https://www.temu.com/uk/bicycle-handlebar-stem-height-extender-1-1-8-28-6mm-alloy-fork-hidden-riser-mtb-road-bike-fork-stem-extension-stem-extender-g-601099873162248.html?_oak_name_id=7234521168011653505&_oak_mp_inf=EIioqMOn1ogBGiBkZmZjNDljZmI0ZTU0ZTdmODQ5MWQ1Yjk5MDc3YmM0ZiCgqq78jzM=&thumb_url=https://img.kwcdn.com/product/fancy/54b31ab1-1982-4d74-bb1c-06dd5d7aa754.jpg?imageView2/2/w/500/q/60/format/webp&_web_cover=thumb_url&pic_h=800&pic_w=800&spec_gallery_id=38888&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=10001&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=NTM2&_oak_gallery_order=281329217,783636479,48041009,2146319525,935941293&refer_page_el_sn=200049&from_rec=1&enable_cache=1&_x_sessn_id=03qz7nhq3l&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1756633756960_akhpgc3bo9
bikeworkshop
Old School Grand Master
Jeez that website just spammed me
benjabbi
Bontrager Fan
@danson67 has swapped a few press fit steerers for me in Judys and Mag 21s in the past. I've also done it myself to a Z2 with a headset press, a bit of tube and a vice. I wouldn't recommend that. It took effort, lots of it, more than a bit of swearing and a couple of bust blood vessels. I've ridden all the forks extensively since and there's been no issues. No creaks, cracks or movement etc. 
I've messaged Danson, thanks.@danson67 has swapped a few press fit steerers for me in Judys and Mag 21s in the past. I've also done it myself to a Z2 with a headset press, a bit of tube and a vice. I wouldn't recommend that. It took effort, lots of it, more than a bit of swearing and a couple of bust blood vessels. I've ridden all the forks extensively since and there's been no issues. No creaks, cracks or movement etc.
What did you find difficult with the homemade press and extractor?
Sorry for not picking up all those name Tags... Must switch on Notifications
If it's just 10-20mm needed, then those clamp in wedge devices are fine. Any more than that and you should look for a different solution.
If it's aluminium get a new one pressed in, or find a friend to swap with.
The alloy used is either 6061 (full 3-stage heat treat needed to restore the yield strength), or 7075 (Higher yield strength, but considered non-weldable, given the high copper content, which leads to hot cracking of welds).
Aluminium steerers should never be threaded, because of the sharp stress raisers created.
If it's steel, then a new one can also be pressed in..of an extension can be fitted.
For a threaded steerer, the cut will need to be low enough to allow full insertion of the stem quill...obvs not a problem with Ahead extensions.
I don't weld my extensions, but silver braze them, with a 40mm overlapping internal sleeve, like an internal lug for the joint. 4x feeded holes for ensuring full penetration of the braze. Feed in one side and keep going until it appears on the other side, repeat in the opposite direction, then check that the seam has silver all round.
A simple welded joint in the steerer, without adequate sleeving and supporting rosette welds or press fitting, will be a weaker section on the steerer.
I don't re-use the old top section, but cut the whole thing back shorter and fit a fresh top section, so there's only one joint involved, so stronger and easier to keep it all aligned and straight.
Here's one I did last week:
All the best,
Must switch on NotificationsIf it's just 10-20mm needed, then those clamp in wedge devices are fine. Any more than that and you should look for a different solution.
If it's aluminium get a new one pressed in, or find a friend to swap with.
The alloy used is either 6061 (full 3-stage heat treat needed to restore the yield strength), or 7075 (Higher yield strength, but considered non-weldable, given the high copper content, which leads to hot cracking of welds).
Aluminium steerers should never be threaded, because of the sharp stress raisers created.
If it's steel, then a new one can also be pressed in..of an extension can be fitted.
For a threaded steerer, the cut will need to be low enough to allow full insertion of the stem quill...obvs not a problem with Ahead extensions.
I don't weld my extensions, but silver braze them, with a 40mm overlapping internal sleeve, like an internal lug for the joint. 4x feeded holes for ensuring full penetration of the braze. Feed in one side and keep going until it appears on the other side, repeat in the opposite direction, then check that the seam has silver all round.
A simple welded joint in the steerer, without adequate sleeving and supporting rosette welds or press fitting, will be a weaker section on the steerer.
I don't re-use the old top section, but cut the whole thing back shorter and fit a fresh top section, so there's only one joint involved, so stronger and easier to keep it all aligned and straight.
Here's one I did last week:
All the best,
Retrorockit
Retro Guru
A different set of skills but obviously the work of a professional.
baron von greenback
Senior Retro Guru
Like I said danson the guy if your going to listen to anyone it would be him
