Boulder Defiant
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futuristicoldman
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I have a newer Starship which I love to bits, I bought it to hang up high away from mud but it keeps coming out to play and theres nothing I can do about it!.. Getting it's set up right has been a real pig of a job though. A very high BB mated to a really steep seat angle makes its handling quite quirky. I had to ditch the typical 90's kit (i.e. long low stem, short steerer and narrow bars) and make the front end tall and wide, my large frame needs an 80mm stem, a 230mm steerer tube and a broad riser with a bit of sweep to enable me to get my saddle back far enough to put myself in a sensible position over the pedals. As soon as I can summon some ££££'s for a stiffer set of forks it will be spot on. I currently have a pair of dh3's which are far to flexible for such a rock solid frame, a set of 3" judy's or efc's will really help things.
I realise it is not a defiant but I suspect the same set up issues will apply. If you can avoid the urge to run a 0 degree 135mm stem then I think it is well worth a go.
I have a newer Starship which I love to bits, I bought it to hang up high away from mud but it keeps coming out to play and theres nothing I can do about it!.. Getting it's set up right has been a real pig of a job though. A very high BB mated to a really steep seat angle makes its handling quite quirky. I had to ditch the typical 90's kit (i.e. long low stem, short steerer and narrow bars) and make the front end tall and wide, my large frame needs an 80mm stem, a 230mm steerer tube and a broad riser with a bit of sweep to enable me to get my saddle back far enough to put myself in a sensible position over the pedals. As soon as I can summon some ££££'s for a stiffer set of forks it will be spot on. I currently have a pair of dh3's which are far to flexible for such a rock solid frame, a set of 3" judy's or efc's will really help things.
I realise it is not a defiant but I suspect the same set up issues will apply. If you can avoid the urge to run a 0 degree 135mm stem then I think it is well worth a go.
futuristicoldman
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Risse still sell service parts and even make replacement shocks so no real worries there. Servicing is a piece of piss.
http://www.risseracing.com/technical/pd ... change.pdf
Risse still sell service parts and even make replacement shocks so no real worries there. Servicing is a piece of piss.
http://www.risseracing.com/technical/pd ... change.pdf
Mr.Toad
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A question for the Boulder experts.
The bike i'm interested in has a slight bend in the tube that runs forward of the rear wheel. I've looked at countless Boulder's on-line and haven't seen another like this (all seem straight).
Could this be damaged or a design variation? Frame looks good otherwise.
A question for the Boulder experts.
The bike i'm interested in has a slight bend in the tube that runs forward of the rear wheel. I've looked at countless Boulder's on-line and haven't seen another like this (all seem straight).
Could this be damaged or a design variation? Frame looks good otherwise.
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The bushed in the pivot are very widely spaces, so if they are in good shape, you should have a pretty stiff rear end. Even today, nothing spaces this wide apart. They can take skin off your ankle bone though. The bushes are cheap enough and easily sourced- hey are a stock part.
The top "link" is actually not quite a motorcycle link, but a link from a production machinery drive chain. With a new link PROPERLY installed (press tool to compress the deformable pins), you should have again a pretty tight rear end.
Stock shock has a very large bushing area which again helps support everything. Very simple coil spring, oil damped. Wind the shock eye to adjust the preload (sag), and change the oil weight slightly to change the damping. 5w is stock. If you're brave you can adjust the valving. Only down side is it's a heavy shock, BUT you're talking about a 4130 steel frame full susser so it's never going to be flyweight.
Yup, Risse still supply an air shock that saves IIRC 3/4 lb, but the damping holes are oo small as stock giving a very lethargic shock. This is intentional. You need to drill and modify these to tune the shock to your weight and style. Not a quick exercise, but it is easy to strip.
This is an old design. Gazelle is 1 1/4" head tube and may or may not have a cranked seat boom. Defiant should be 1 1/8". These are old skool machines, so forget lobbing on even a judy, let alone 100mm forks. Stick to period M1/2/3/4 or mag 20/21 (Earliest gazelles came with colour matched RS1, but even these could feel a little long) and period stem length and bar width and it will handle fine. Try and make it modern and it will feel like a chopper...
Gazelle- with square section tube by the BB, you may need a suntour front mech to clear a 46/48t ring (clam is lower than on M730). Defiant, shimano mech should work fine.
The top "link" is actually not quite a motorcycle link, but a link from a production machinery drive chain. With a new link PROPERLY installed (press tool to compress the deformable pins), you should have again a pretty tight rear end.
Stock shock has a very large bushing area which again helps support everything. Very simple coil spring, oil damped. Wind the shock eye to adjust the preload (sag), and change the oil weight slightly to change the damping. 5w is stock. If you're brave you can adjust the valving. Only down side is it's a heavy shock, BUT you're talking about a 4130 steel frame full susser so it's never going to be flyweight.
Yup, Risse still supply an air shock that saves IIRC 3/4 lb, but the damping holes are oo small as stock giving a very lethargic shock. This is intentional. You need to drill and modify these to tune the shock to your weight and style. Not a quick exercise, but it is easy to strip.
This is an old design. Gazelle is 1 1/4" head tube and may or may not have a cranked seat boom. Defiant should be 1 1/8". These are old skool machines, so forget lobbing on even a judy, let alone 100mm forks. Stick to period M1/2/3/4 or mag 20/21 (Earliest gazelles came with colour matched RS1, but even these could feel a little long) and period stem length and bar width and it will handle fine. Try and make it modern and it will feel like a chopper...
Gazelle- with square section tube by the BB, you may need a suntour front mech to clear a 46/48t ring (clam is lower than on M730). Defiant, shimano mech should work fine.
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