Bottom bracket newbie question

Good question. It appears to have the noodle for cantis which was gone by 1996, but also the chainstay mounts which weren't there on the 1995 models. My guess is that at this point they were making mid-year models and this is a mid-year 1995, but someone based in Italy might be able to give more information. Some serials have two letters and my suggestion based on the serials I have so far is that these could be mid-year models, but I don't have enough serials to be certain.
This is where I got the idea that it's a 97.
Apart from colours is same bike as the catalogue, but I might be wrong.
There's this post on Instagram saying it's 96.

I get serial numbers of both my Scapins tomorrow 👍
TR-X frame weighted 2650g totally naked.
 

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So could be a ‘96 as @kingoffootball suggested - a sort of transition
As the forks as well are the ones that go with the VR-X and this is a TR-X (triple butted Barco Fratelli made frame )
 
But whatever it is - it’s a beauty and as others will attest it’s no scrap

Have you the serial number ?
 
The correct chainline is what you want. job done.

Loads of bikes have been built up with the wrong sq. taper bb previously, people use what they can find.
- you can never fully trust it

Additionally, the drive side axle length is often the same on adjacent lengths - god knows why.
 
Good question. It appears to have the noodle for cantis which was gone by 1996, but also the chainstay mounts which weren't there on the 1995 models. My guess is that at this point they were making mid-year models and this is a mid-year 1995, but someone based in Italy might be able to give more information. Some serials have two letters and my suggestion based on the serials I have so far is that these could be mid-year models, but I don't have enough serials to be certain.

Serial number is UE419.

My other Scapin is Z780.
 
The correct chainline is what you want. job done.

Loads of bikes have been built up with the wrong sq. taper bb previously, people use what they can find.
- you can never fully trust it

Additionally, the drive side axle length is often the same on adjacent lengths - god knows why.
Great, thanks!
Now, for the next question:
I usually ride using the 2 largest cogs 90% of the time on my route, do I go for a chainline in between those or stick to the measurements taken from the middle cog to centre of frame as per Sheldon table?
If I have to go in between 2 largest cogs I would need 110mm, otherwise 113mm is perfect.
 
If you ditched the inner ring you might use a shorter bb axle, but if the ring is there, keep the chainline as is.

A narrower q factor is often preferable, but a derailleur that won't shift onto the small ring is bad, and you might increase the risk of chainstay damage if it all gets too tight.
 
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