Bombers leaking oil -- Cause for concern???

[02gf74]

I've had oil come out on my Z1, not as bad as yours, just on the stanchions ob two occassions.

Both times it was fixed by stripping down the forks - easy to do - and cleaning the seals. (even though they looked clean.).

So still using the original seals.

On second occasion bike was left hanging upright and not ridden for a number of years so they may have just dried out - I think there is a flet pad as part of the seal).

 

[JohnH]

Cheers 02gf74 -- I've just been looking at the manual that Fluffy Chicken linked to, and it seems to confirm the opinions that everyone has kindly offered (image below)...

 

[FluffyChicken]

I have a shed and a garden, I still do most my maintenance in the kitchen and the sink

 

[JohnH]

I have a shed and a garden, I still do most my maintenance in the kitchen and the sink

Well in that case, I'd better get some newspaper laid out then....

 

[TheBowelsOfLove]

Hi

I always seem to be adding new questions to these Bomber threads.

Today, i changed my springs in my Z1s to extra firm (bought what appears to be last pair from CRC) and used 10w synthetic oil for damping. I drained as much of the old dirty oil as possible by pumping the rods and stanchions but the new oil was still discoloured so i drained it again and used fresh oil for a second time.

Anyway, i have a question regarding the top cap, gold stanchion and how it fits into the crown. I tried to unscrew the top caps with the stanchions still clamped by the pinch bolts on the crown thinking i had it easy but couldn't and thought they were seized. I didn't realise that the lowest part of the top cap assembly beneath the safety ring was also clamped.

Is this correct? Should both the top cap and stanchion be clamped in the crown so that the safety ring just about clips in place above crown or should the more of the gold stanchion be showing above the crown, akin to shortening length of fork.

Much ado about nothing i know but if i didn't ask, it would bug me forever.



Below is a photo of somebody elses forks which shows how mine currently looks. Bottom part of top cap is clamped, along with gold stanchion meaning top cap can;t be removed with loosening the two side pinch bolts.

However, another photo i found shows where you can see gold stanchion protuding slightly above the crown meaning top cap can be unscrewed without loosening pinch bolts.

 

[FluffyChicken]

Those forks look to have their pinch bolts over tightened, I'm sure they shouldn't be almost touching, but the edges be near parallel to each other.
I personally would always loosen the clamps as it releases pressure on the top caps. At least for other forks (JUDY/MAG) I cannot remember on my S-Fly's if I needed to or not.

I think on my Z2 S-Fly, with a similar safety ring, they pretty much just sit in the crown in one position by design and you cannot move up/down from there.
Check in you manual (on Marzocchi website)

 

[TheBowelsOfLove]

Those forks look to have their pinch bolts over tightened, I'm sure they shouldn't be almost touching, but the edges be near parallel to each other.
I personally would always loosen the clamps as it releases pressure on the top caps. At least for other forks (JUDY/MAG) I cannot remember on my S-Fly's if I needed to or not.

I think on my Z2 S-Fly, with a similar safety ring, they pretty much just sit in the crown in one position by design and you cannot move up/down from there.
Check in you manual (on Marzocchi website)

Hi

Thanks.

The safety ring obviously stops the stanchions falling out of the crown but there is no restriction the other way. I guess i'll leave it as it is as with top cap clamped inside the crown along with the stanchion, at least it can't accidentally work loose.

 

[02gf74]

On mine, there is about 1 mm of top cap showing between the clamp and the snap ring, so I think the cap is clamped down.

I've disassembled them twice and there was some problem with my method that could have been not undoing the clamp bolts to start with.

 

[andrewl]

However, another photo i found shows where you can see gold stanchion protuding slightly above the crown meaning top cap can be unscrewed without loosening pinch bolts.

On the crown there is a lip to spot the stanchions being pushed too high into the crown.

This is machined off when used on the MrT from 1997 (late 96), and some owners have done this in the past too. Personally I'd avoid any fork where this is done as the screwed in cap also adds some strength to the clamping area.

So in short the way you have reassembled in the top photo is correct (ie not quoted above).

One tip: use some anti sieze on the crown bolts and on the foot nuts when you reassemble old bombers as seized/corroded bolts and nuts is relatively common.

 

[TheBowelsOfLove]

On the crown there is a lip to spot the stanchions being pushed too high into the crown.

You're spot on. I took them apart earlier and noted the lip which i really did not notice last time. I thought i had pushed them through past the lip, hence my questions. Well that solves that once and for all. Lip in crown for correct stanchion placement it is.

While i was at checking it, i checked my oil levels again with the springs out and noted they had decreased by a small amount. I put this down to oil being carried out on the spring during removal. I think i made a mistake as I topped up each leg with a couple of small drops to bring the oil level back to within 45-50mm of the top of each leg.

Problem is, now i'm only getting 95mm travel according to the zip tie. I'm sure i was getting the full amount yesterday. I really can't be bothered to take it all apart yet again and remove a tiny amount of oil from each leg though. I'm guessing that having too much oil makes the last 10mm of travel hard to reach but prevents bottoming out?