BMX hubs for singlespeed duties

[barry2017]

Could someone tell me about this? Is it possible? Do BMX bikes have weird chainline? Am i right in thinking they have 110mm spacing? Could anyone suggest a decent yet inexpensive hub?

Yet another thing I know nothing about.

 

[perry]

I would go for an old ( pre mid 90s ) 10mm solid axle freewheel hub , incredibly simple and just screw on a 16t freewheel . Yep that's the spacing so your going to have to pinch the rear end a fair bit

I put a sealed suzue hub on a tubular rim for the road bike that's taking forever to become a complete bike so I can't say what the chainline is like but I could take some measurements so you know where the center of the freewheel is in relation to the edge of the hub or even the center of the shell but it would be more difficult as there are spokes in the way .

Things to keep in mind are 48 or 36 spoke hole count , from the mid 90s onwards it pretty much all went 14mm axle but keep an eye out for more race specific stuff for 10mm . freewheel threads are the same except for the flip flop hubs that used a smaller freewheel . 15tooth freewheels exist for the common thread type but are quite weak , same goes for the 13 tooth freewheels for the flip flop size but 14tooth is fine on them .

You will be hard pressed to find a new bmx hub made for freewheels , they have all gone cassette ( ratchet is really the correct term here ) they will either use a specific "driver" that combines the sprocket teeth with the freehub , although only really 12tooth or lower ( as small as 8 tooth ! ) Others will be the shimano spline so sprockets are easily found as large as you want to go and there may be a small amount of chainline adjustment .

The big big money would go on one of these

http://profileracing.com/estore2/index. ... ductid=341

and the big money on quite possibly the strongest hub available and it's left hand drive flippable so you can have the cranks on the left side , no reason to other than on a bmx but it does mean you can orientate the pawls so the hub is fixed , if your that way inclined .

http://www.odysseybmx.com/catalog/g-spo ... tchet-hub/

budget minded but sticking with the "cassette" design is the odyssey race hub . With this you get the 10mm axle , the common as muck sprocket choice and it's odyssey quality . No longer made but I don't think that will stop you .

http://www.danscomp.com/426103.php

or theres the older freewheel hubs , I think alan sold off the sealed ones not that long ago .

http://www.alansbmx.com/product_info.ph ... ts_id=1942

Completing the rasta explosif cruiser with a bmx hub is a major consideration of mine . Really the only things stopping me are the lack of tooth count with the gsport meaning I would have to use a 22 or 24 tooth chainring leaving not much chain on teeth and the fact I've only really just finished the set of wheels it already has so spanking a massive wedge on the profile micromini , the ceramic 28 spoke rims and DT revolution spokes would be a hefty kick in the balls

So maybe in a couple of months

 

[FMJ]

I have a 117 on Shimano DX BMX hub on my SS. They come w. solid 130mm axles, so I had to swap out to a 135 QR axle. It's spaced evenly now. I will redo it to bring the hub over another mm towards the drive side and re-dish, as the cog is as far outboard as possible and the chain line is a hair off.

 

[Neil G]

If you have the money Profile are the ones to go for, easily up there with the best most MTB manufacturers have to offer Otherwise as Perry points out Odyssey are pretty good (and affordable!).

 

[velomaniac]

Any screw on freewheel hub be it BMX or not can be used with long enough axles and spacers. Dishing the wheel one way or the other when you build it can achieve the desired chain line. Ring spacers on the cranks can further sort chainline as well as spacers behind the free wheel.
For longevity you want a hub with good sealing of the bearings, often road and mtb hubs are good for this. BMX hubs are best for toughness as they are designed to take a lot of hits but are not alway particularly light weight as a result.

Think carefully about your requirements before choosing the hub.

 

[legrandefromage]

I would go for an old ( pre mid 90s ) 10mm solid axle freewheel hub , incredibly simple and just screw on a 16t freewheel . Yep that's the spacing so your going to have to pinch the rear end a fair bit

I put a sealed suzue hub on a tubular rim for the road bike that's taking forever to become a complete bike so I can't say what the chainline is like but I could take some measurements so you know where the center of the freewheel is in relation to the edge of the hub or even the center of the shell but it would be more difficult as there are spokes in the way .

Things to keep in mind are 48 or 36 spoke hole count , from the mid 90s onwards it pretty much all went 14mm axle but keep an eye out for more race specific stuff for 10mm . freewheel threads are the same except for the flip flop hubs that used a smaller freewheel . 15tooth freewheels exist for the common thread type but are quite weak , same goes for the 13 tooth freewheels for the flip flop size but 14tooth is fine on them .

You will be hard pressed to find a new bmx hub made for freewheels , they have all gone cassette ( ratchet is really the correct term here ) they will either use a specific "driver" that combines the sprocket teeth with the freehub , although only really 12tooth or lower ( as small as 8 tooth ! ) Others will be the shimano spline so sprockets are easily found as large as you want to go and there may be a small amount of chainline adjustment .

The big big money would go on one of these

http://profileracing.com/estore2/index. ... ductid=341

and the big money on quite possibly the strongest hub available and it's left hand drive flippable so you can have the cranks on the left side , no reason to other than on a bmx but it does mean you can orientate the pawls so the hub is fixed , if your that way inclined .

http://www.odysseybmx.com/catalog/g-spo ... tchet-hub/

budget minded but sticking with the "cassette" design is the odyssey race hub . With this you get the 10mm axle , the common as muck sprocket choice and it's odyssey quality . No longer made but I don't think that will stop you .

http://www.danscomp.com/426103.php

or theres the older freewheel hubs , I think alan sold off the sealed ones not that long ago .

http://www.alansbmx.com/product_info.ph ... ts_id=1942

Completing the rasta explosif cruiser with a bmx hub is a major consideration of mine . Really the only things stopping me are the lack of tooth count with the gsport meaning I would have to use a 22 or 24 tooth chainring leaving not much chain on teeth and the fact I've only really just finished the set of wheels it already has so spanking a massive wedge on the profile micromini , the ceramic 28 spoke rims and DT revolution spokes would be a hefty kick in the balls

So maybe in a couple of months

I dont think that answer was quite comprehensive enough

I like the gold ones and was toying with the idea of messing around with a set too.

 

[Neil G]

Any screw on freewheel hub be it BMX or not can be used with long enough axles and spacers. Dishing the wheel one way or the other when you build it can achieve the desired chain line. Ring spacers on the cranks can further sort chainline as well as spacers behind the free wheel.
For longevity you want a hub with good sealing of the bearings, often road and mtb hubs are good for this. BMX hubs are best for toughness as they are designed to take a lot of hits but are not alway particularly light weight as a result.

Think carefully about your requirements before choosing the hub.

Profile do Ti axled hubs designed for racing....light, well made but unfortuanately expensive!

 

[bonkersbuilder]

anyone got a black dx rear hub up for grabs?

I am in the middle of my latest build and fancied a dx rear hub for my drive this time as the bontragers get a bit expensive,and with my bulk will probably need new bearings a bit more often than a bmx hub.
cheers