2manyoranges
Old School Grand Master
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Interesting - the nice thing about Hope and Phil Woods is that you can creep them over left or right in the bb shell to get some clearance if you need just a wee bit more. Obviously lunatic differences in the alignment between the cranks is to be avoided, but a tweak here or there is fine, by walking the cups left or right.
Re the stuck cup - The cups can get pretty madly fixed onto Hope and Phil Woods, due to electrolytic action between the surface of the (alloy) cups and the (steel) bearing outer race surface. Throwing releasing fluid at it is no good, since the two surfaces are bonded by oxide, and the fluid just gets into the bearings and breaks the grease down. If you have a plastic tube exactly the same diameter as the outside of the BB - I use a piece of white plumbing tube - you can nestle it down and use the ‘whack it just hard enough and not too hard’ method. Has to be brave and skilled application of force though. Hope cups just ping off with this method, without damaging anything.
When reinstalling, make sure the bb threads are really really clean, all the way in - use a small brass brush to really clean the threads. Also make sure the drain hole in the bb shell is clear, and without a raised swarf edge on the inside. Really clean that. And squirt a load of GT85 up all the tubes and around the BB shell. Then install the BB with loads of copper-based anti-seize compound, and I mean loads. Then you will easily be able to march the BB into the right alignment.
Interesting - the nice thing about Hope and Phil Woods is that you can creep them over left or right in the bb shell to get some clearance if you need just a wee bit more. Obviously lunatic differences in the alignment between the cranks is to be avoided, but a tweak here or there is fine, by walking the cups left or right.
Re the stuck cup - The cups can get pretty madly fixed onto Hope and Phil Woods, due to electrolytic action between the surface of the (alloy) cups and the (steel) bearing outer race surface. Throwing releasing fluid at it is no good, since the two surfaces are bonded by oxide, and the fluid just gets into the bearings and breaks the grease down. If you have a plastic tube exactly the same diameter as the outside of the BB - I use a piece of white plumbing tube - you can nestle it down and use the ‘whack it just hard enough and not too hard’ method. Has to be brave and skilled application of force though. Hope cups just ping off with this method, without damaging anything.
When reinstalling, make sure the bb threads are really really clean, all the way in - use a small brass brush to really clean the threads. Also make sure the drain hole in the bb shell is clear, and without a raised swarf edge on the inside. Really clean that. And squirt a load of GT85 up all the tubes and around the BB shell. Then install the BB with loads of copper-based anti-seize compound, and I mean loads. Then you will easily be able to march the BB into the right alignment.
