Anybody fitted there own log burner?

Grannygrinder

Retrobike Rider
Gold Trader
Feedback
View
Looks straight forward to me :D
Any stumbling blocks i need to know about?
Any preference for flue material?

It will be going straight up and out through a pitched single storey roof.

Talking to my local Renewable energy geezer he says the only reason to get a hetas engineer to fit one is to avoid getting the building regs people involved.
Local hetas engineer wants £800 labour to fit one :shock:
I can get the building regs signed off for less than £200, no brainer??

Lend me your knowledge folks :D
 
Myself and the g/f fitted mine a couple of years back (she'd already fitted her folks) - it was dead simple, but in both these cases we had existing chimneys...

I take it you don't, so I reckon you'll want stainless twin-wall flue. Make sure you've a decent weather & heatproof flashing where it exits through the slates/tiles, and it'd be a good idea to keep the insulation a distance from it where it goes through the ceiling, though the twin-wall should negate that a bit...
 
.

Did you not need to involve the building regs people as you were running it up an existing chimney?
I wouldn't bother myself but it will become an issue if i want to sell the house :roll:
 
Fitted my own about 2-3 years back, house has an existing but unsealed chimney (house is circa 1897) so needed lining and used a twin wall 316/904 grade (burning smokeless at times) stainless flexible liner

In addition to zimbob's comment, is the single storey roof the highest? The chimney needs to terminate a certain height above the ridge.
 
.

I think i'd have to run the flue up and out and then kink it back to attach it to and run up the second storey, if that makes since :D
 
I've fitted 2 wood-burning stoves in our cottage over the last 10 years.

The first one used 316/904 liner in chimney but it lasted about 3 years before it disintegrated. For the 2nd stove, a welded steel stove we bought to replace original cast-iron Morso that was crap because it cracked, I used 904/904 as it's better. More expensive but should withstand the corrosive products you get when burning logs.

We bought our liner and the rest of fittings from here,
http://www.fluesystems.com/
At the time we bought they were the cheapest.
If you scroll down on left hand side you'll see there's a "Knowledgebase" with info on what you need to do to fit liners and the regs involved.
 
Mike when me and my dad replaced the old liner 4 years ago we found it was easier to get on the roof and drop the liner down that way (gravity is your friend) as to regs do you really need to get stuff signed off now cant you claim the house has always had a wood burner :?
 
I have built quite a lot of chimneys, and worked on many others. there are specific building regs on the height of the chimney/flue in relation to your ridge line... and also including your next door neighbours ridge line if it is higher than yours.. The trouble with this is that if your flue needs to extend high above your roof and it is visable from the street... then this could then become a planning issue.

"The 2002 edition of Approved Document J of The Building Regulations stipulates that any work that affects an existing chimney (ie fitting a new stove or liner) or creating a new chimney now comes under building control."

As for fitting it yourself in your own home then its your call :) and they are generally easy enough to fit.you can usually get away without informing anyone.. but i would advise against it. hard to say without looking at the actual job. :)
 
.

gibbleking":3996vl7q said:
declare the burner as decorative when selling and non usable...easy ..

:D I'm not going to spend in excess of £1000 on something that won't add any value to the resale of the house :roll: :D

I'm am a bit concerned about rooflines etc as we are a bungy between 2 storey houses, i think i may have to extend the flue to a height where securing it may become a problem :?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top