94 Orange e2 refurb

[homerjay]

Just pulled my bike apart and started my refurb.

Bought some nitromors and mothers metal polish.

Nitromors is bloody rubbish, doesn't seem to do anything.

So I went and bought a nylon brush for my drill. This one http://m.screwfix.com/p/non-woven-prepa ... 15mm/83915

I think it may have been a bad idea! It's more like brushed aluminium now.

I've only done one stay luckily.



Left is raw with the nylon brush on the drill.

Right is after 5 attempts with mothers and elbow grease.

Have I buggered it or do I just need to polish more with mothers? There must be a better way?

Cheers

 

[painter09]

Re: Orange e2 refurb

we and dry sandpaper now with plenty of washing up liquid and warm water , start with a 600 and progress with 800, 1200, once your done then a polishing mop on your drill and some auto T cut should see a nice shine. nitromors is nothing more than water these days and I would recommend a visit to an auto paint supplier for a tin of paint stripper, its the real deal just like the old nitromors, brush it on and instant paint blisters,

 

[homerjay]

Re: Orange e2 refurb

cheers, i'll go wet and dry on the part ive messed up.

but i stuck another coat of nitromors on last night for an hour then attacked it with a brillo pad.

the lacquer is coming off in patches, albeit slowly.

cheers

 

[Wold Ranger]

Re: Orange e2 refurb

The modern strippers are slow, some are better than others, I use Ballentines then a plastic scraper/old credit card and it comes off after a few coatings, wouldn't use a brush on a drill!!! Needs some patience and elbow grease, (plenty off).
Solvol Autosol is the best Aluminium polish, will shift even tough marks, then buff with "Maguires" metal polish for a mirrored and long lasting shine.

 

[homerjay]

Re: Orange e2 refurb

well i got bored of trying to get that damn lacquer off, so tomorrow my frame is going to be chemically stripped (£20) and then bead blasted (£35).

the guy at the shop reckoned leaving it raw would be a bad idea as the bead blast will leave slight profile for dirt to adhere to.

he recommended getting it lacquered again.

thoughts?


also, ive got gil doing me some new decals, should the lacquer be over or under the decals?

 

[homerjay]

Re: Orange e2 refurb

Ok. Frame has been acid bathed.

Then polished with mothers

But not happy with the outcome. It's shiny enough but there putting on the frame from rock impact I guess.

Question is, should I get it powder coated? But then it will lose it's originality.

Ahhhhh what to do.

 

[Wold Ranger]

Re:

Polish it with, Solvol, then, Maguires metal polish, then use a good quality resin polish, will stay shiny for ages, with only an odd buff up needed, don't PC as it will need to be blasted (not good for Aluminium) and powder will chip and add loads of weight.

 

[homerjay]

Re:

Thanks

But I've decided on a painted finish now I think. I've been told powder coating shouldn't weaken the frame. I am aware it will add weight obviously.

I want to choose an original colour though. I've emailed orange who have no idea what colours were available in 1994.

Done a bit of searching and I can only find raw ally e2's though I have found yellow e3's which could work

Anybody any suggestions?

 

[Wold Ranger]

Re:

When you get it powder coated, choose an out fit that has a "vapour blaster" this will provide a key for the paint, without eating into the alloy, as sand/beads will do. What about getting it anodised? Satin Black was well used BITD and looks good with Orange or Lime decals. Have had several 93/94 frames in Satin Black.

 

[homerjay]

Re:

Good shout on the vapour blast. I'll check that.

Satin black was my first shout but I have already had new decals made in orange and purple. Could still work I guess

I've read that anodising weakens the welds? Though I'd still have the problem with the pitting damage on the frame with anodising.

Saying that, an I being ignorant thinking that paint will cover such damage ?