8Freight Cargo bike - restoration / project

Long time no progress.

Had a little time this evening, so gave it a wash off

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Decided to have a look at the headset. Not good. Cleaned and regreased and thrown back together. No chance, rough as toast. New headset on order

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New wheel bearings are in the post, so in the next couple of weeks I am aiming to fit those and new brake shoes all round. The brake levers are seized so may need to dig some out before sorting cables out.

The freehub is seized solid so I'll need to do something with that too. But I've already got new chains and an 8 speed cassette ready. I've fitted a narrow-wide chainring to the original crank as they will 'do' for now to get the thing on the road.

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The rear mech is pants and looks a bit long in the cage department, so I'll probably dig something 90s out.

Hopefully updates should be coming as I get stuck in to this.

Joe
 
Intriguing rear end setup. Is it a screw-on freewheel or cassette on splines? I reckon you could spacer out that red arm and make space for a few more gears.
 
It's made for 8 speed (hence the name) but this has some spacers at the back of the current 6 speed cassette fitted by a previous owner.

Going back to 8 speed with a 32t chaining, should be ok for most rides although it is hilly near me.

It's a cassette on a freehub I *think* but seems to be slightly different to the normal 8mm allen key (or is it 10mm?!) fitment. Part of the rear axle somehow, I think. I'll hopefully have it apart this week so I'll update.

Joe
 
Slightly better angle of the clearance.

I am hoping that the hole for the rear mech is threaded for a standard mech bolt to wind in, rather than that nut & bolt currently in place.
 

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I've got a 32T narrow-wide chainring and 9-speed 11-34 cassette on my cargo bike and it's been plenty of gearing even when heavily loaded. I keep meaning to switch it over to 10-speed because I borrowed it all temporarily from my mountain bike, but it sort of became a permanent fixture. 10-speed would fit on yours if you're changing the shifters and it gives you a good range of gears to use between loaded and unloaded.
 
Slightly better angle of the clearance.

I am hoping that the hole for the rear mech is threaded for a standard mech bolt to wind in, rather than that nut & bolt currently in place.
I've repaired a few hangers where the thread has ripped out, normally by making a top hat bolt from an axle nut. I think I've got one somewhere you are welcome to if you need it to get shut of the nasty nut on the back of it.
 
29/06/23

Had an hour in the garage.

Forks removed (again), crown race removed. New crown race fitt.........oh hang on, how the hell do I get the new crown race on?!

A piece of Henry Hoover got me started, but the diameter was only enough to knock it on flush with the top of the 'shim'.
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So then resorted to cutting a piece of 2" waste pipe and getting it finished with that.

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Then to drift the star nut out.....hmmm....found a long piece of steel pipe stripped out of the house years ago (knew it would come in handy somewhere!) and out she popped.

I'd bought a headset removal tool for the cups in the frame. But the steerer tube is machined so that the cups sit flush internally. So cups were just whacked off from the outside with a screwdriver and hammer.

Also bought a headset press recently but that won't be long enough! So it'll be back to a long piece of threaded bar with pieces of skirting board to press the new cups in! :LOL:

I rocked the fork back and forth a bit in the vice to check for any de-bonding. None discovered but it's not exactly a scientific test.

Slow progress.
 
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