8 Speed Cassette too wide for 8 Speed Hub. Help!!!

[Tootyred]

Had exactly the same trying to use a miche cassette. As some others have said, the locking ring threads were too long and fouled the dust cap. Shorter shimano lock ring sorted it.

 

[bikeworkshop]

Had exactly the same trying to use a miche cassette. As some others have said, the locking ring threads were too long and fouled the dust cap. Shorter shimano lock ring sorted it.

Cheaper quality lockrings are often thicker because of lower quality metallurgy.

 

[Thame Game]

Funny thing happened this morning. I took an early ride out on my '77 Ciöcc. I was sitting by the sea wall where I stop for coffee. A bloke who was working nearby came over and starting chatting about my bike.
He obviously knew a thing or two because he spotted the columbus tubing and the group set on it.
Turns out, he ran a bike shop not far up the coast and had trained as a wheelbuilder in Nottingham for Raleigh! What are the chances of that!?
I told him about the above problem. In short his answer was this:

90's Ultegra used a freehub body that had a 'step' near the hub. Only Shimano or very good alternatives had the correct cassette to fit over this.
Also, the thread inside the freehub is pretty shallow, so a lock ring with long threads would bottom out before engaging the cassette body- hence the wiggle or looseness mentioned above.

So, it seems the problem is theoretically solved. It just remains now to find a Shimano cassette to fit.
I wonder if 90's XT will do it? 8 speed Ultegras are costly and tightly spec'd for racing. But at this stage I wouldn't mind anything that moved the build on.
Here's some more pics...

 

[Thame Game]

I should ad that the black lockring is the microshift jobby. The one on the left is Mavic, it fits the freehub perfectly, but can't get passed the microshift cassette to engage the threads inside the freehub.

 

[ishaw]

What cog ratio are you after? I have a couple lurking, ones a new Shimano, not xt though. I remember that some Shimano ones seemed to have a recess in the alloy carrier which may be to account for the step at the back of the freehub. Not sure which Shimano designation was used but they used 'type' and a letter alongside the model. Some came with a spacer to fill the gap, maybe to make it compatible with other freehubs?

 

[benjabbi]

Two freehubs

On the left, Hyperglide as you have. On the right Hyperglide C which came about when Shimano ripped off Suntour Micro drive and moved to an 11t sprocket.
Notice how the spline stops short of the end on the right one. The splines are closed off on an 11t sprocket, it won't slide all the way onto the hub and interlocks with the shorter spline. As the spline/thread on the older freehub reaches all the way to the end this means the 11t tightens up against the spline end and not against the cassette. Leaving the cassette rattling about by a couple of mm.
Sometimes you can put a spacer behind the cassette to take up the gap but as this shifts the whole cassette over towards the dropout it can, as you've found, hit the frame.
You could fart about spacing the hub out and redishing the wheel or fit a different freehub. The easiest thing to do is use a cassette with a 12t top sprocket as the hub was designed for. It'll go straight on with no problems.

 

[Thame Game]

What cog ratio are you after? I have a couple lurking, ones a new Shimano, not xt though. I remember that some Shimano ones seemed to have a recess in the alloy carrier which may be to account for the step at the back of the freehub. Not sure which Shimano designation was used but they used 'type' and a letter alongside the model. Some came with a spacer to fill the gap, maybe to make it compatible with other freehubs?

Thanks a lot ishaw, I think anything 12T and up. With the allowance for the lip or step on the freehub.