1989 Klein Top Gun
- Thread starter Canuckbiker
- Start date
No bad idea's, the black MC1/fork does actually go really well, I agree
Really liking the stock color scheme option though, here's computer image I made up to get a better idea
My sons liking this option best so far
90's Ninja
98+ BoTM Winner
Winning look. That fork fade will be a fun projectNo bad idea's, the black MC1/fork does actually go really well, I agree
Really liking the stock color scheme option though, here's computer image I made up to get a better idea
My sons liking this option best so far
View attachment 959448
These cleaned up great, thanks Roy!
Perfect companion to the SE Suntours that came with the frame
Perfect companion to the SE Suntours that came with the frame
Prodigal Son
Senior Retro Guru
A suntour xc seatpost would be the original spec or close. Its a great post btw
Decal time
Before attempting to apply the decals I gave the original paint a thorough clean and then used Turtle wax rubbing and then polishing compound, I then added a couple small paint touch ups using model paint with a small brush, the condition of the original paint is impressive
As previously mentioned the frame as purchased came with original Klein decals, also included was a photocopy of original instructions for applying the decals:
After reading these instructions and feeling a bit bummed I didn’t have a spare folding bone or vintage Bic pen lying around to handle burnishing duties I also though “these instructions seem a bit confusing” compared with what I’m used to.
I’ve only ever applied standard vinyl reproduction decals and always found the process a bit stressful. I have seen videos where water slide type decals are applied, looks like a cool option, I’ve just never tried it. I like that the decal can be repositioned if needed during the process.
The instructions for these decals seemed to describe yet a third decal application method. Here’s a long winded story on how this decal install process went in case anyone else comes looking. My interpretation of the Klein decal instructions:
1) Peel off the adhesive protection
2) Stick to frame
3) Burnish
4) Wet for 30-60 seconds
5) Peel away now wet transfer paper
6) Clean any remaining surplus adhesive
7) Buff dry
(I was happy the seller of my frame included a spare of each decal I needed so I could mess up each one at least once)
While adding green tape decal guides to the frame and trimming the decals using the excellent transfer paper printed guide lines I peeled back the adhesive protection paper. It really did not give me the impression there was any sort or stickiness to be honest.
Armed with a screwdriver with a handle possessing a smooth flat burnishing edge, a small spray water bottle and a clean towel soaked with warm water I peaked off the adhesive protection and proceeded to stick the decal to the frame, it stuck. I then burnished (pressed the screwdriver handle back and forth gently along the entire decal transfer paper) as instructed. Then gave the transfer paper a couple spray bottle squirts followed by soaking the transfer paper with the wet towel for close to 60 seconds. After removing the wet towel the transfer paper was ready to fall away and the decal remained stuck very well, then gently cleaned it up with the wet towel and a then a bit of dry buffing with a paper towel.
This decal application method reminds me of the decals included with small scale model cars and planes I used to work on as a kid.
I have to say, fantastic quality. There is no thick clear vinyl mass decal surrounding the graphics. Only barely what is needed to support the graphics and very thin. Pretty cool for a 35 year old decal.
I’ve read that these types of decals are meant to have a thick clear coat applied after application as they are quite thin. I’ll roll the dice and remind my son they may scratch off easily, I’m not keen to clear this frame still with original paint in such good condition.
Also, is the “Top Gun” graphic Gary Klein chose not super cool?
Before attempting to apply the decals I gave the original paint a thorough clean and then used Turtle wax rubbing and then polishing compound, I then added a couple small paint touch ups using model paint with a small brush, the condition of the original paint is impressive
As previously mentioned the frame as purchased came with original Klein decals, also included was a photocopy of original instructions for applying the decals:
After reading these instructions and feeling a bit bummed I didn’t have a spare folding bone or vintage Bic pen lying around to handle burnishing duties I also though “these instructions seem a bit confusing” compared with what I’m used to.
I’ve only ever applied standard vinyl reproduction decals and always found the process a bit stressful. I have seen videos where water slide type decals are applied, looks like a cool option, I’ve just never tried it. I like that the decal can be repositioned if needed during the process.
The instructions for these decals seemed to describe yet a third decal application method. Here’s a long winded story on how this decal install process went in case anyone else comes looking. My interpretation of the Klein decal instructions:
1) Peel off the adhesive protection
2) Stick to frame
3) Burnish
4) Wet for 30-60 seconds
5) Peel away now wet transfer paper
6) Clean any remaining surplus adhesive
7) Buff dry
(I was happy the seller of my frame included a spare of each decal I needed so I could mess up each one at least once)
While adding green tape decal guides to the frame and trimming the decals using the excellent transfer paper printed guide lines I peeled back the adhesive protection paper. It really did not give me the impression there was any sort or stickiness to be honest.
Armed with a screwdriver with a handle possessing a smooth flat burnishing edge, a small spray water bottle and a clean towel soaked with warm water I peaked off the adhesive protection and proceeded to stick the decal to the frame, it stuck. I then burnished (pressed the screwdriver handle back and forth gently along the entire decal transfer paper) as instructed. Then gave the transfer paper a couple spray bottle squirts followed by soaking the transfer paper with the wet towel for close to 60 seconds. After removing the wet towel the transfer paper was ready to fall away and the decal remained stuck very well, then gently cleaned it up with the wet towel and a then a bit of dry buffing with a paper towel.
This decal application method reminds me of the decals included with small scale model cars and planes I used to work on as a kid.
I have to say, fantastic quality. There is no thick clear vinyl mass decal surrounding the graphics. Only barely what is needed to support the graphics and very thin. Pretty cool for a 35 year old decal.
I’ve read that these types of decals are meant to have a thick clear coat applied after application as they are quite thin. I’ll roll the dice and remind my son they may scratch off easily, I’m not keen to clear this frame still with original paint in such good condition.
Also, is the “Top Gun” graphic Gary Klein chose not super cool?
I've got all parts for the build sorted now including new cable inners for the internal routing, the last items I needed to sort out were some red & blue rattle cans that match as close as possible for the fork & MC1. Frame over my shoulder I went through every available can at both Canadian Tire & Home Deport, (these two stores will usually turn up something close enough) I managed to find a decent match for the blue. The red on the other hand, nothing even close.
It's kind of a pink/red colour. Lordco is one of our Canadian automotive parts stores and I knew they offered a custom colour match service in rattle can form so headed that way. Unfortunately the scanning tool they use could not collect a good enough sample of the red from the frame due to the curved tube surface. The paint mixer and I then poured over about six different books of automotive colour samples and I rolled the dice with the one we both thought was closest. Bit of a gamble at $40 a can.
Before committing to both colours I completed a test with a gloss white base coat followed by the blue & red purchased on a piece of steel tubing and the result seemed acceptable.
For the fork & MC1 prep work I decided to use the light sand approach rather than stripping all paint off to bare metal. I made a conscious decision to mask the handle bar ends where the grips go plus about half the brake lever clamp width. Two reasons: Clear grips will not be used and adding all the extra paint could make the levers & grips install a bit of a challenge.
Over all I'm stoked with the outcome and so's my son, I continue to find SprayMax 2K a fantastic clear coat option, not too challenging to get a thick, smooth clear finish. The blue & red are not perfect matches but pretty darn close I think.
Gonna leave it to cure for a couple weeks, then assembly time
It's kind of a pink/red colour. Lordco is one of our Canadian automotive parts stores and I knew they offered a custom colour match service in rattle can form so headed that way. Unfortunately the scanning tool they use could not collect a good enough sample of the red from the frame due to the curved tube surface. The paint mixer and I then poured over about six different books of automotive colour samples and I rolled the dice with the one we both thought was closest. Bit of a gamble at $40 a can.
Before committing to both colours I completed a test with a gloss white base coat followed by the blue & red purchased on a piece of steel tubing and the result seemed acceptable.
For the fork & MC1 prep work I decided to use the light sand approach rather than stripping all paint off to bare metal. I made a conscious decision to mask the handle bar ends where the grips go plus about half the brake lever clamp width. Two reasons: Clear grips will not be used and adding all the extra paint could make the levers & grips install a bit of a challenge.
Over all I'm stoked with the outcome and so's my son
, I continue to find SprayMax 2K a fantastic clear coat option, not too challenging to get a thick, smooth clear finish. The blue & red are not perfect matches but pretty darn close I think.Gonna leave it to cure for a couple weeks, then assembly time
