12mm rear through axle help

ishaw

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My son's Mondraker foxy carbon r (2015) seemed to have the wrong through axle fitted when I bought it. It appeared to be too long so maybe a boost axle on a non-boost frame, as it would not tighten up without bottoming out on leaving play.

No problem, I had a build for myself I'd yet to get to which had a syntace axle which seemed to fit perfectly.

I now need to replace that as I will be doing my build next.

So what axle do I need for either replacing the one on the foxy, or the bike I'm building next, a transition patrol from around 2015 too I believe.

I'm struggling to find info on the thread pitch for either bike, which is the vital ingredient to buying the correct axle.

Anyone know what pitch is needed? The original Mondraker axle was a DT swiss from what I've found, but they are available in different thread pitches. I think the syntace is only available in 1.0. while this may answer the question, I am not sure that the syntace is a perfect fit as while it does screw in and tighten up, it can work it's way loose. That said, there are reports of that with the original axle so I'm not sure.

Anyone have the magic answer?
 
Yet another area where the bike industry F’d up. Three bloody pitch standard for the same part.
Syntace version was also referred to as X12 and has a 1mm screw pitch. Also a conical washer where it fits in the frame not a flat.

At least going forward with most frames going UDH, it should become universally 1mm pitch, but still some manufacturers are making UDH compatible hangers with 1.5 and 1.75 pitch. 😔
 
Thanks for the reply. The Syntace being 1.0 pitch was taken from the transition so at least I know for sure that's a 1.0 thread.

If anyone can confirm the pitch for the Mondraker foxy carbon r that would be great. I don't think I have the tools to measure the pitch to that number of decimal places.
 
Thanks for that. As the frame was second hand and already seems to have the wrong axle fitted, I wasn't sure. I know you can screw anything in to something if you try hard enough, it shouldn't be possible to screw the wrong BB cup or pedal into a crank arm, but people seem to.

Good news if both 1.0, just need to find another one.

You seem up to speed, any good options or ones to a avoid?
 
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You seem up to speed, any good options or ones to a avoid?

All the DT Swiss I’ve had have been good quality. Can’t really see past them.
Avoid anything too light as very easy to round the hex hole. Burgtec ones are really nice and also have an emergency Allen key fitting in the drive side end just in case you round the main one, but are spendy.
 
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