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Maybe. But its what I did to get one off a Stronglight Impact chainset and it worked a dream. Anyway, good to know you're sorted

cockpit? I thought it was about bikes not planes

can you make a simplified tool? Crudely, Get a nail, cut the head off. Sharpen the point so it fits into one of the holes. Bend it into a broad U shape, such that the 2 ends slot into the holes. Then hold with pliers and turn like a key

that's a decent bike, albeit getting dated now, probably 20 years plus judging by the groupset. Bear in mind, there may be the possibility, with the age that this bike falls into the "harsh Aluminium" era - in other words, stiff and efficient, but a bone acher over a long distance

my theory is if you remember the old days, most front mechs overshifted and thus overshot the big ring. We got round it by just tweaking the outer edge with pliers to stop that overshift. My thought is, this bit of plastic prevents that overshift, thus helping the inexperienced mechanic in...

yep, that' what I found so took it off

It's actually quite intuitive once you get into it. I'm not a pro mechanic and managed it with no instructions. The most useful thing I found was to have a pair of curved, thin nosed pliers to hand to access awkward areas

Trainer bike

It might be worth stating what tubing it is. Columbus SL or SLX is far more desirable than say Aelle or Zeta. Also best not to use the word "crashes" in your description, this having the obvious negative connotations

The stamped dropouts and kickstand bracket leads me to think it's a gas piper

I found the old Weinmann centrepulls to be quite effective, but there are provisos. First, I used modern MTB blocks, which aren't retro and look a bit chunky Second, the modulation is poor by modern standards. They were powerful enough to stop, but it was an "all or nothing" action, which was...

Me too, fabulous steed

I remember those big German sprinters pre the Chris Hoy days had their transmission on the left. If it's a proper track hub with lockring, it can't unscrew

might have done, had I known about it. I tend to see this side of the forum for enthusiastic MTBers, which isn't really me, so tend not to frequent these parts

The chain tensioner wasn't designed for trial and error chain lengths. Older frames had horizontal dropouts so you could slide the wheel fore and aft. All track frames are designed like this because they are intended to be single speed. Modern frames now have vertical dropouts, so there is no...

Fixie? You now a hipster?

Not sure it would work. The problem with those campag mechs of the era were the top jockey wheel fouling the big cogs. With no B screw, this problem wouldn't go away. With a modern hanger dropper, it would probably work in the bigger cogs, but then the jockey is a long way from the little cogs...

Dunno. Just remember some passing through my hands and the bearings didn't look too bad, but the gears looked low rent

There was also xenon at the lower end

Go to your local engineering bearing place, the kinda of unit on an industrial estate with the existing race and they'll probably have one