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Which type are you after? There are three versions of Bulbs; Mk1 - 5 bolt via a removable spider Mk2 - 6 bolt with disc tabs going all the way to the flange Mk3 - 6 bolt with truncated disc tabs, sealed at the inner end (as opposed to the Pro II which was open)

I think many, many companies over-reached themselves post Covid. The world is currently a scary place, people can't afford to heat their homes and eat, and the vast majority of their target audience, despite appearances, are those who don't actually have a huge amount of spare cash. Yes, there...

If you can get a steerer with the correct tolerance at the interface then it should be easy enough for a decent tuner like Sprung or JTech to replace it with a longer one.

I've avoided commenting on anything about Rampage as I can't be bothered typing it out on a phone to become a little snippet on Instagram. I've hit a lot of big stuff in my time and taken a lot of risks on a bike, both while racing and just going out riding. But all of the decisions have been...

It is, but if you jumped on an F1 wishbone it would snap pretty easily. Carbon's great for things where you know what forces are going to be applied, and where you can control the damage, but a lot less good when it's open to all manner of customer misuse combined with gram counting. In road and...

PM'd

Pretty sure this is how I did it until I got the larger end on the Park tool. Any suitably sized washers will do the same job too.

Yep, not normally my favourite look but they work well, especially with the silver cranks.

I'll take them. PM incoming.

It'll have been galvanic corrosion between the stainless steel and the aluminium, especially if there's mag in the lowers. A suggestion for future stubborn bolts is to soak for a few days to a week (if you know it's going to be really stubborn) in Bulldog BDX which is amazing stuff.

If you want to get the dent out I'd consider speaking to a local good (and I will emphasise that point) PDR guy. I've got a local one here I use from time to time who's excellent and loves all sorts of interesting challenges. A seat clamp on at the top to prevent distortion there and I reckon...

I'll go with that option I think, please ;) I need another spare tyre I'll never use like a hole in the head. Want to PM me your PayPal? Cheers

Cool, how much do you want for it posted?

Would you be willing to split the Michelin Comp 15 out from the pair?

You can also use a plastic drinking straw and a small jar to decant the paint from an aerosol. I've used this technique a lot for decanting it out to use in an airbrush for finer details. Tamiya sell empty 30ml and 60ml jars for saving the paint. It'll gas out for a bit so best to leave the lid...

What's M3-500 when it's at home? Halfords used to be my go to for model making and helmet spraying etc when not using an airbrush as the can tops were close enough an approximation (although not as good as their original painted tops) but this new system that takes a manufacturers actual paint...

Yep, very much so. I was struggling with the more recent 11/12spd Shimano stuff just not lasting, particularly 2nd & 3rd, but I only just replaced the SRAM X01 Eagle on the MT after about 7000km which given the grit, slop and steep climbs (and heavy bike/rider) it deals with is very impressive...

I'm already loving the pointlessness of this, and I mean that in the nicest possible way. Everything we do on this site is pretty pointless, but it's great, and living out childhood dreams and plans is about the best of those pointless activities.

Candy apple red: Polished:

I was replying to @Slowhand about the polishing but when I'm digging out the polished M1 pics I'll put up some from before I sold it when I had it done candy apple red to help you, it looked stunning. The larger slab sides compared to tubes really allowed the colour to pop and show its subtlety...