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It’s been my first time using spray paint. I‘ll spare you the details. But at least it‘s more green than before. That was the goal, mostly. Piecing together the driveline and adjusting the „belt line“ went much better. Next step will be mudguards.

And properly adjusted V-brakes use less much lever force and offer superior modulation. SCNR🙃

Sounds good to me!

Primer is done. The steerer was a little corroded. So I figured a light sanding and some anti-rust primer would do no harm.

Excellent! I think too many coloured nipples would take away from that undeniable classy look. For my Catalyst I tried to pick up the colours of the rim decals with the nipples. It’s just one colour here, so maybe just two coloured nipples either side of the valve hole? But it might prove...

It’s working fine. Feels much more solid than the regular drivetrain. Next step is to strip it down and touch up the paint.

Pulled another set of cranks out of the parts bin, got a new spider that works with the front pulley and it works; without taking 5mm off the BB shell or putting a big old dent in the chainstay. It‘s a fairly tight fit allround, but so far so good. break-in test

I have received the crankset and installed the pulley. I have removed the XTR crankset and installed the Red crankset just to check. Not too shabby! This could work! The challenging part: the green frame with the seatstay coupler does not have that big dent in the chainstay.

Fitting a 46t pulley could prove to be more challenging than expected. Using the Sram Red crankset will likely be impossible, due to the chainline. A 50t chainring on a similar road crankset will definitely not clear the chainstays. Even before reducing the BB Shell width.

OnOne Fleegle

Fitted the wheels, brakes, cockpit and got a belt. I was planning to use a Sram Red GXP crank. Unfortunately it looks like GXP road cranks only work with 68mm BB shells and the Fortitude comes with a 73mm shell. Which poses the question: remove 5mm of BB shell or get another set of cranks...

It’s likely a IS41 headset. If I remember correctly there are no headset cups on this generation of frames necessary. This is a useful document to identify headset types.

Looks like I caught a lucky reflection this morning

That is the correct hose type for this brake. 👍 If you really want to keep those brakes it still might be worth to take apart the lever assemblies. Not to change the seals but to clean everything thoroughly and apply fresh lubricants. Concerning caliper alignment you should check whether the...

Part 1: done

The frame has been modified. But not to the extent I would have wished. The chainstays are too far apart to accept the Pinion bridge. It still might be possible to adapt the bridge to contact the chainstays but the level of bodgery required to pull this off did not make me feel comfortable. So...

To be sure: while being stationary, did you pull the brake lever hard and kept applying that high pressure for a prolonged period i.e. 10 secondsor more? Spongy lever feel may also come from a misaligned caliper. If the fluid is fresh, the alignment perfect and the seals in good condition it...

Worn master cylinder seals will not show external leaks. The hydraulic fluid will simply flow around them inside the lever. What bleeding procedure are you using? Did you at any point replace the brake fluid entirely?