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I've got a Cannondale Spidering crankset for my Super Six, which currently has an Ultegra crankset fitted. My question is . . . I know Shimano crank spindles are 24mm, so are smaller than BB30. So, to fit my 30mm Cannondale crank will I need to change the BB? Or is there some kind of adapter...

I just found this: "With a bottom bracket with 107mm axle length, square taper JIS (not included) the crank set has a chain line of 43.5mm" https://custom-junkies.com/stronglight-double-crankset-impact-compact What a b*ll-**d! I've asked the BB supplier if he'll sell me a shorter spindle.

It was a 117 that came off it. English thread. I guess I could try the old 117 and see.

Just came to fitting the chainwheel on my Peugeot rebuild and it's sitting way to far from the chainline. I (thought I) calculated chainline correctly to account for going from 7- to 8-speed. Pic below shows a straight(-ish) edge from the cassette which puts the chainline at about the shoulder...

a la https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Or will the frame take a bit of cold setting if the hub needs bigger dropouts?

I think this is the key consideration. The question is, can it take a bigger cassette if I rebuild the wheel with a new hub? I'll do some measuring.

I've got a late-80s (?) Raleigh M-Trax MTB I want to convert to a gravel-type setup (single crankset, 11 or 12 on the cassette, flared drops etc). it's got 3x7 at the moment. Is there an order to spec the drivetrain? I was thinking I should get the cassette in first then match the crankset to...

it's fine now, thanks. Rolled out the dents in my top tube and the steerer

What I meant by 'bung' is that it is shaped a bit like a bung that goes in a bottle or barrel, like so . . .

I've acquired a peugeot Aravis and intend to renovate the frame (531 pro) and put all the parts from my existing Peuogeot Etoile )HLE) onto it. IE, it's a frame upgrade. The BB on the Aravis is 115mm. The BB on the Etoile is 122mm Does that mean the crankset on the Etoile (122mm) sits more...

Sorry, steerer tube not fork tube

Success! I think those Cinelli bungs are maybe a bit too good. It had been tightened so much that it had deformed the fork tube. I got it out by getting a thin drift past the (detached) bung and hitting the bottom of the stem from below (lots of blows, alternating the impact point). I can't get...

I think it's a Cinelli thing with a kind of concentric bung in the end. But I don't really know because I can't see it. I've stuck a long rod down and it feels like there's nothing in there and the bung / wedge has dropped away.

That's worth a try. I've knock the stem in, and had a helper hang onto the forks while I wanged the bars / stem around to no effect so far.

Haha, yeah, I'll get a helper

I'm dismantling my Peugeot 531pro-framed project. It has a Cinelli stem in the headstock. The quill is disengaged (wedge has dropped out). I can rotate the stem but it won't come up out of the fork tube. Any idea why?

Got this old Peugeot yesterday and plan to refurb the frame and use it on my other HLE-framed Peugeot Etoile. It's a 531 professional frame with mostly 105 groupset and Mavic MA-40 wheels. Anyone know what model / year it is?

Ah yes, this type of thing https://steel-vintage.com/products/downtube-cable-stops-detail Also, I can just route cables under tape.

I've got an old Peugeot with downtube shifters. What's involved in upgrading to handlebar shifters? Is it possible to drill handlebars to route cables? Will any 2 x 8 set of shifters work? It's been fitted with a new cassette and rear derailleur, a Shimano Altus, so it's 2 x 8.