maybe true, but I’m not that person to be seen dead on any of those awful contraptions when it’s easier to pedal a sleek like road bike on asphalt……Never say never
Advice on buying first vintage road bike?
- Thread starter Swelo
- Start date
non-fixie
Senior Retro Guru
I always thought that stand over was important for one reason.
So you didn't knacker your knackers if you slid off the saddle .
My knackers are fine. But thank you for asking.
TBH, I'd never even heard of stand-over height being a thing until fairly recently. In practice it has never been a problem for me.
This is on a 63cm frame, with plenty of room to spare:
The largest size I ride is 66cm. Not a problem either:
bikeworkshop
Old School Grand Master
You have to be careful buying a frame based on how "tall" the to of the headtube is.
However, up to the 80s large frames basically just got taller, the top tube rarely even made it to 23" - due, iirc, to limited supply of adequately long downtube blanks and the restricting of the standard frame jig
(We had one, had to adapt it to make giant frames)
So if you're approaching 6' a lot of these larger frames still ride ok.
More modern stuff not so much.
You nearly lost me with 'fixie', that hipster word for a fixed wheel bike. But I stuck with it . You may be correct, but the 'fixie' user is a fairly minority cyclist. Most of the reviewers and folk who feel overlap is a consideration ride geared bikesIt's 2006,
track stand at traffic lights on your fixie,
Little cap on backwards,
casual shirt,
cards in the spokes...
Oh how they laughed.
Toe overlap is a disaster!
The 3 speed Hercules I had as a teenager had plenty of standover height. Didn't stop the nads taking a battering when it slipped into neutralI always thought that stand over was important for one reason.
So you didn't knacker your knackers if you slid off the saddle .
bikeworkshop
Old School Grand Master
nearlyi had a similar experience today when I lost traction on a super steep uphill
non-fixie
Senior Retro Guru
On sizing for a true French fit: this is a frame specified by René Herse in 1975 for someone with an 82cm inseam.
Centre-to-top frame size would then be 58.5cm, i.e. 71% of the inseam. For me at 89cm that translates to a 63.5 cm frame size and for 87cm that would be 62cm.
Centre-to-top frame size would then be 58.5cm, i.e. 71% of the inseam. For me at 89cm that translates to a 63.5 cm frame size and for 87cm that would be 62cm.
bikeworkshop
Old School Grand Master
The toptube length is the part that can't be altered - on this RH frame, it's tall for the length - it's 56.5, same length as a modern 56 to 57cm frame - or a 22 1/2" in imperial money.
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