Had one of these and mine snapped at the bracket where the large iDrive bb pot is mounted. Also mind the ball bearings in the pot don’t move much but can wear in easily.
Had mine welded and it’s still going around somewhere. Heavy but fun bike.
I assume it was painted looking at various pictures from original product. Dropouts are worn after inserting the wheel and that’s not the case when anodised. And if anodised I would have seen marks when removing paint from mine.
I ordered gloss black spray, thanks for the help and keep you...
Trek Sawyer. I remember the first advertisements where the Trek Broadsider was showed as a prototype and in 2011 the Sawyer was born. Less wild as this proto but very much klunker style. Had this frame in my possession for many years (bought when still working for Trek) and had it build in some...
Already stripped and it was down to bare metal without any old layers. Without any paint the legs are very loose in the crown so my guess is with paint it still fits. Crown is also painted, was originally bare aluminium.
Restoring this fork and stripped it down to bare metal after someone painted the legs in carrot orange. Now next step trying to come close to original paint. From the net I can't tell if it is gloss black or chrome black. Anyone who can help me out? Thanks!
I know the added instruction is not the same lever but same principle. Remember the Avid adjustable cable hanger to use with both canti and V’s. This was a simple copy of this Shimano design.
And no, road disc was not present when m739 was introduced.
Here's the explenation of the movable cablehanger inside the lever. These levers are both canti and V ready (and maybe even disc). When the shims are removed the hanger can move closer to the pivot. As I want to sell the STi's as complete I included them but for canti's these should be removed.