Recent content by ChuckO

Thermoplastic carbon? I've de-retro'd mine a bit too much to qualify, I think, but I know there are a few out there in RB land... Definitely a dead end.

I'm not sure if there is a clear coat on these frames. It seems to me the finish is the thermplastic/carbon matrix. It's not a really smooth or glossy finish... not even matte. It has some texture to it. Being thermoplastic (maybe some sort of polyethylene?) I don't think it's too sensitive...

How difficult would it be to machine a new axle w/o threads? Might that be the easier option, while allowing you to use your custom clamps? (of course you'd still have to get it ano'ed). Seems you've got the machining resources...

Sounds like Fairfax Pat's got you covered, but you might also check out south of S.F... I live 30 miles south and there's some great riding on the peninsula and farther south to Santa Cruz. I'm a relative newbie and crazy busy otherwise I'd offer to show you around. You might try posting on the...

I'm just guessing here, but I think ball burnishing creates a thin layer of higher density aluminum, which is why you may not want to abrade it. Ball burnishing is a longer lasting polishing treatment. Similarly, anodizing creates a thin layer of aluminum oxide, which is also harder and longer...

Titch, I'm with Pierre... I don't know if the seat tube will be able to withstand the twisting and shear forces of the rear shock. Perhaps moving the mount to a gusset between the seat tube and the top tube, so the top tube takes some of the load? Of course, your design may be fine. A lot...

Heh. When I first read the original post, it reminded me of the documentary "Plane Crazy" of a few years back, in which tech writer Robert X. Cringely endeavors to build his own airplane (or "aeroplane", if you will). Not only does he give himself a ridiculous deadline, he also thought he'd...

I'm not an engineer, but I think the chainstays will need to be beefed up. Also, I think there will be too much leverage on the upper seatstay pivot. Maybe make the pivot in-line with the stanchion clamp, and move the pivot out closer to the stanchion to reduce the torsional load on the...

Thanks. Looks even nicer now that it's got a properly sized shock. I do need to service the forks... They top out with a terrible clunk.

Rubber radiator hose of the appropriate diameter, black zip ties top and bottom. Looks good, even from a relatively close distance.

Travel is adjusted by reversing the plastic "chips" that anchor the trunion pins. Lots of info (including manual scans) in this old thread: http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=88951

Well, at least you avoided the top tube, IYKWIMAITYD!

OK, perhaps I was a bit hasty in declaring the lad mad. I've got an STS-1000, which has a pinch bolt to keep the inner sleeve in its place (see attached). From your pic, it appears the STS-1 has no such pinch bolt. So, best I can figure is someone replaced your STS-1 tidbits with STS-1000...

I think the lad is mad. Can't really blame him, tho, since the bike's probably older than he is :wink: . My bike ('98 STS) has the same hollow pivot at the top, however the bottom is not hollow. I think you'll see many bikes with the needle bearing upgrade, which is not hollow.

Can't believe it took me all this time to come up with this, but... It's got really retro forks! PS: It's a Trek