Seized screw in GT 2x4 forks, advice requested.

[bikeworkshop]

I would like to thank you all for your input and I would think that the general consensus is to get the screw drilled out somehow, but I have no experience in doing this so I would personally not want to take the risk of doing this myself. I value these GT forks enough to not want to ruin them !

However, I have just remembered there's a bike repair shop in Sheffield, previously located in Dronfield.
https://vernonbarkercycles.co.uk/repairs_frames.html
I may take the forks there for them to have a look and see what they can do with it. I think for now they'll be the safest option for me to consider in order to make the forks useable.

Don't forget, the Forks are usable without the adjusting screw shank being removed.
It's pretty normal on a vintage race frame to just tidy it up and ride on.

 

[Black_puma]

Don't forget, the Forks are usable without the adjusting screw shank being removed.
It's pretty normal on a vintage race frame to just tidy it up and ride on.

That is a good point! But as the forks need repainting anyway I would think they could be the best option and not too far away from me.
I don't know why I didn't think of that before, .

 

[henrysthreeironbands]

repaint is an easy diy job.

 

[Black_puma]

repaint is an easy diy job.

Sadly I don't have a suitable place to do this job myself without spending more than it will cost to have it done professionally...

 

[Junonada]

I'd soak the fork end in 50/50 ATF & Acetone for a while and try and follow the screw and push it out with the new screw or grab whatever is sticking out and pop it out depending on how it's broken off.

The 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone is an awesome trick for stuck stems, seatposts and bottom brackets. Works where kroil, pb blaster etc. doesn't.

 

[Black_puma]

I'd soak the fork end in 50/50 ATF & Acetone for a while and try and follow the screw and push it out with the new screw or grab whatever is sticking out and pop it out depending on how it's broken off.

The 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone is an awesome trick for stuck stems, seatposts and bottom brackets. Works where kroil, pb blaster etc. doesn't.

worth bearing that in mind thanks!

 

[Twozaskars]

Just leave it and move on
Drilling a hard metal out of a soft one is extremely difficult, especially at that diameter. This can only end badly.

 

[SFP]

From a former machinist's point of view.

First step is a drill press. Do not even bother trying to do it with a hand drill - way too much movement that can mess things up.

Sharp high quality bit is a must obviously (three to five would be handy to have on hand).

You will also need cutting milk (something like Ultracut Pro for example).

An adjustable vice that you can lock the dropout into will also be required. Be sure to wrap the fork section in a rag or something to protect it from the vice teeth.

From there it is just time and patience. Keep the drill point clean, keep the area well lubed and slow & steady will get you there. Make damn sure your drill is fast as it is a hardened metal. Moderate pressure on the drill bit. If it starts to squeal you are going too slow and do not have enough cutting fluid. For this I would be a two down to cut, one up... clean, relube, repeat.

A local machinist shop will have all of the above. Price wise I have zero idea what a shop would charge - full rates won't be cheap though. A buddy or a friend of a friend who could do the project after hours would be ideal. Do you have a local "Builders Club" where you can access said tools as well as an expert or two to help guide you?

Failing all of the above, I am with the rest who say, "leave it alone and move on".

 

[Black_puma]

From a former machinist's point of view.

First step is a drill press. Do not even bother trying to do it with a hand drill - way too much movement that can mess things up.

Sharp high quality bit is a must obviously (three to five would be handy to have on hand).

You will also need cutting milk (something like Ultracut Pro for example).

An adjustable vice that you can lock the dropout into will also be required. Be sure to wrap the fork section in a rag or something to protect it from the vice teeth.

From there it is just time and patience. Keep the drill point clean, keep the area well lubed and slow & steady will get you there. Make damn sure your drill is fast as it is a hardened metal. Moderate pressure on the drill bit. If it starts to squeal you are going too slow and do not have enough cutting fluid. For this I would be a two down to cut, one up... clean, relube, repeat.

A local machinist shop will have all of the above. Price wise I have zero idea what a shop would charge - full rates won't be cheap though. A buddy or a friend of a friend who could do the project after hours would be ideal. Do you have a local "Builders Club" where you can access said tools as well as an expert or two to help guide you?

Failing all of the above, I am with the rest who say, "leave it alone and move on".

I have just been to the Vernon Barker bike repair shop (frame builders too) this afternoon and they have said whilst they could try do the job it is not without risk of failure.
And as the forks are usable as they are now I'll probably clean up and get them repainted.

It would of course have been nice to have the adjustment screws in place as intended but I can live with it once repainted, it not worth the risk of getting them ruined for the sake of a small seized screw that won't otherwise affect it's function.

Again, I would like to thank everyone for their input and I truly appreciate this!
Time to get the forks prepped for repainting....

 

[d8mok]

I have just been to the Vernon Barker bike repair shop (frame builders too) this afternoon and they have said whilst they could try do the job it is not without risk of failure.
And as the forks are usable as they are now I'll probably clean up and get them repainted.

It would of course have been nice to have the adjustment screws in place as intended but I can live with it once repainted, it not worth the risk of getting them ruined for the sake of a small seized screw that won't otherwise affect it's function.

Again, I would like to thank everyone for their input and I truly appreciate this!
Time to get the forks prepped for repainting....

Don’t let them near it as Vernon’s.