Any interest in sprint wheels for tubs?

It was ok when Vittoria offered a tyre for £14, or bike shops had an old fella whod fix them for a tenner, but those days are gone.

It's not cheap retro biking for sure,

Although you could probably get the same level campag/aci/mavic sprints for £50 less than the equivalent clinchers,
its over £100 to get 2 tyres and a spare!
 
Sadly no more Clement No.3’s as they sung beautiful on good roads back in the day…. 😁

Tubular tyres ride really nicely,
I think it's because the tyre body stretches all the way round, so they feel a fast as their width, but with the smoothness of one size bigger clincher.
Trouble is you need to carry a spare, and a puncture is often treated as unfixable.
There's surely an online fixer, but you'd need to send a few over at once to justify 2 way postage
 
I've used tubulars for the last 4 years (about 5k miles) and only had flats before I knew about sealant.

First flat after 86 miles - added Orange Seal - fixed
2 flats 1 year later - realised I had to top up the Orange Seal as per instructions.

So I've never learnt how to mend them and I've had to replace no tyres so far - don't even carry a spare.
Then again I'm riding in London so I could always get home on public transport or a taxi.

But I do like the ride :)
 
I've not ridden tubulars this century. I've thought about it but to be honest, clincher technology has moved on so far from when I were a lad that I can't justify anything else.
A couple of weeks back I bought a bike just for the frame which was fitted with load of awful modern kit including an unused set of Campagnolo Hyperon Ultra Two carbon sprints shod with Continental Giros so now I've got to find a home for them.
 
Just got hold of a couple of Clement yellow label Setas. One doesn’t hold air and doesn’t even pump up to try and find a hole. As they are NOS I guess the tube has just perished.

Has anyone ever replaced the whole tube by the following method-

Remove base tape and h snip the stitching for 3 inches past the valve hole. Pull out the tube from casing and cut it clean through. Attach strong cord to the cut end. Pull the cut tube out whilst pulling the cord through the casing.

Take a new latex tube and cut the same way as above, and attach the cord. Cover in talc and use cord to pull new tube into carcass. Overlap the ends by at least an inch and splice the tube using a latex bonding solution, such as bostik 3851. Allow to cure, lightly inflate and check for leaks at the splice. Restitch the small segment of cut stitch and reapply the base tape with copydex.

Sound feasible??
 
Tubs are superb: they ride so well; but there is a vast difference between cheap ones and good ones.

I’m running Vittoria Pave, and have been for a few years (not huge mileages). One of them punctured. Using the internet, I made an incision, found the hole in the tube, patched it and sewed it up. It’s a latex tube. It loses air a bit quicker than its partner, but is good for a couple of rides. I know, “Bullshit” you cry, and I don’t blame you. But it is possible and one day I will do a forensic YouTube “tubopsy” to prove it!

Anyway, the bigger problem is prolly the lack of availability of more tubs rather than repair skills.
 
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