Which Paint Would You Use

[allenh]

Whether you paint it yourself or get it painted or powder coated by someone else comes down to how comfortable you are with the job at hand, how much time and money you want to spend on it and what you want to use the bike for when it's finished. And of course there's pro's and cons to every method.

The answers from the above will probably make the decision for you but from personal experience there's a lot of satisfaction in knowing you painted your bike yourself and if you do go down that route then the most important thing is prep, prep and more prep, plus make sure you use the best etch primer you can along with a 2K clear coat over the top. As has been said the Upol etch is a good all purpose primer and pretty much all their stuff is good but there are other alternatives, e.g. I use HB Body as well as Upol.

For lug lining use a paint pen, its really not that difficult using one of those with care although colours other than silver or gold are a little more difficult to find.

 

[bagpuss]

Had this powder coated a few years back. The colour match to the forks which were rattle can was spot on .

Carlton . Giro d'italia by rebalrid, on Flickr

End product .

Carlton .Giro d'itaila by rebalrid, on Flickr

 

[juice.bikes]

Going to bump this thread rather than make a new one and hoping for some opinions from people who have resprayed frames themselves with rattle cans. I don't have access to a both and want to see if I can achieve a good enough finish with quality spray paints. Please no replys saying powdercoat is cheaper etc. I know this, but I want to try and get multi coloured finished frames typical of what you would see in the 80's.

For a professionally sandblasted steel frame would it be better for a etch primer or high build 2K primer in terms of longevity? If the longevity is better it might be worth going for etch even with the added prep time I have been told is needed.

After some more research the only 2k primer spray paint I can find is Final Systems High Build 2K Primer Spray at £10 a can which I can't find many reviews for.

Epoxy specific primer seems to only come in 1K if I am looking correctly.

As an example if I was to use Final Systems 2k high build primer - 2 coats, then a max of 3 coats of Gold, then SprayMax 2K lacquer would this work? Afaik and can understand there shouldn't be any reaction when using them together?

Eventually would like to set up a workshop with a booth but for now I need to be able to be flexible with where I do the frames.

 

[Mickeyspinn]

My tuppence...from painting a fair few frames.
Defo get your frame blasted....glass bead not the black grit! Glass bead textures the steel or aluminium but won't remove material unless the blaster doesn't know what he's doing! Pressure down and less pick up of media Black grit will rip apart a frame in seconds.
Although I haven't I will next time,I would recommend getting a paint shop to lay on an epoxy primer you won't get a better base for everything going on top.a paint shop will have access to the best stuff.

Any paint that comes out of an aerosol is a compromise! Nobody likes hearing that but I'm afraid it's fact.

Do not handle the frame with bare hands! Everyone is a bucket of slightly corrosive moisture ....where gloves till your at top coat stages.
Buy your paints from a car paint body shop supplier....not Halfords et al....just paint suppliers.tell them what your painting onto and let them tell you want you need!
Don't spray in temps the paint says don't...
Avoid humidity !
You want airflow not heat for paint to cure properly
Thin coats ...always thin coats...no ifs or buts!
And finally ....don't spray the frame you want to until you've done a practice or two on frames you don't mind messing up!

Spraying a car panel is easier than a mass of tubes all converging like a bottom bracket! You'll need to find your technique!

Don't ever use "normal" masking tape if you want to create a crisp definition between two colours.
The rest is all down to you!
Have fun be safe

 

[juice.bikes]

Not sure what medium the blaster uses but I'm pretty sure they know what they are doing. Used to be the man behind the original armourtex in London. He specializes in powder but will ask if he can lay down a suitable primer so I just have paint it and 2K clear coat it after.

I hear you. Spray paint out of a can is a compromise in ways but I am not expecting a £350 professional paint job. I'm trying to recreate classic paintjobs with multiple colours/fades at an affordable price and reasonable quality. For example In terms of quality something better than mario vaz and as close to a £200 single colour finish from most reputable painters. For the extra colours, cans are the only affordable option. This isn't impossible otherwise no one would paint panels on cars with cans.

Good points but couple questions, why only use car paints from a car paint body shop supplier? Why wouldn't Montana Gold Acrylic work?
What tapes do you recommend? I haven't researched options yet but I know normal tape wouldn't be suitable. Something like frog tape etc.

 

[Mickeyspinn]

Well I can't help you in pricing chap that's your call! I only do my own paint because the standard I like I can't afford to pay for! If I could afford I would pay! If your going to do it as a business I'd get practicing it'll be hard to be better and cheaper! I've got a thread going called "da funk is this" its got a few pics of a half competent home paint job not much covering the application but might give some pointers. If I was flush enough cash wise I wouldn't miss a beat paying someone to do it better and quicker ...I'd hazard the one ive nearly done just putting on paint and masking etc no frame prep probably about 20 hours in!

I wouldn't pay anyone to spray a panel on a car with a rattle can...that's fill it and flip techniques to me.

I've not heard of Montana gold? I presume that's a brand name? If you mix paint supplies youll want to trial them first see if they give a hard enough stick to each other...rattle cans worst compromise is that fact theres only so much pressure in the can....to overcome that and maintain an even enough consistent flow is done by thinning the paint and or adding more driers. Whereas with an a fed system either compressed or turbine pressure is always there right on tap and adjustable! Plus the gun is adjustable too!
Tape for edge work you'll get from autobody paint suppliers, it's flexy and rolls round corners and has really crisp cut edge...and its thin. goes on real flat. I think it's made of a vinyl.
Grab a frame get stuck in,start a thread here aswell I'm pretty confident theres more fetlers and restorers here who can offer tips!