Stripped the thread on my crank trying to get it off....

Minifreak":44tp2lg0 said:
You can try a puller in it, arms tucked behind and threaded section on the BB axel. You may need to cut the chainring bolt arms off to get one in.
Or you can use a goood saw and cut it off/ bit of both technique.

It's not going to be possible to cut the same sized threads, a crank extractor would just pull them out in the future again.

I'd say the crank is toast. Do you actually have to remove it right now?

This is the last one I had to remove with the saw/ puller method.

The drive side is more of a pain obviously.

What cranks are they? I may have a spare kicking about.



:shock: Never had to cut a stuck crank arm off, especially on a square taper :shock: used to use the general method of riding it a bit without bolts in, soon comes off. Got bored of walking back to the house pushing bike with crank in hand. So i just tap the arm gently on the front then the back repeatidly until it works loose, easy. It is on a taper so doesnt need much time/effort to get it wobbling! no matter how stuck it appears. If you try to pull it off flush then you are having to unstick all four sides at once, tap or ride and you are only moving two sides, :)

Im sure i have seen other crank repairs, will look in a bit :)

Mark
 
Riding with the bolt out will ruin the taper fit though so don't suggest that If you want to try and rescue the crank, fine if its toast anyway. Couldn't do that on mine as the bike was far from rider state.
 
fattiman":2eg865l1 said:
Really want to save the crank. How about buying a set of self extracting crank bolts?

Just like the tool they'll need something to screw into and self extracting crank bolts don't screw in anywhere near as far so have even less thread engagement so very unlikely to work.

Got a pic of the damage?
 
fattiman":1tmxlx86 said:
Really want to save the crank. How about buying a set of self extracting crank bolts?

Do you mean so you can remove the arms? thought you stripped the thread?

Seriously, if your trying to get the arms off then a rubber mallet gently tapping the fromt of the arm then the rear, it will fall off, just be patient and you dont have to hit it hard and damage any tapers, just gentle, seemingly pointless taps :)
 
Re:

I had a crank with a stripped thread, I warmed it up a bit first with a hot air paint stripper gun and it came straight off with a whack from a rubber mallet.

Does the crank really need to be repaired? If you can get it off and on again isn't it useable?
 
If none of the above methods work, how about finding an LBS with a crank puller for the stupidly designed Campy Powertorque cranks?

This Park Tools page shows it in action.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... -section-3

Don't see why it wouldn't work with square taper Middleburns.

Having said all that, not sure how you're going to deal with them in the future -- any retailed thread is likely to be wider and not work with a crank extractor tool. RS3s aren't that pricey. Might just be cheaper to get a new set. As they were billet rather than forged, I bet there's a few people with just the one side left unbroken!
 
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