Guinessisgoodforyou
Retro Wizard
Just curious, would a rigid fork be a more robust option? Or would it pound the cr@p out of the rider and cargo?
Show us your e-bike
- Thread starter Imlach
- Start date
MuchAlohaNui
Senior Retro Guru
I think a rigid would rattle everyone and everything out of the cargo box 
. Still a consideration though. I like that idea. Maybe a slight compensation with a larger front 20" tire? I looked into 20" Trials forks at one point but the local R&M mechanic/tech frowned at this as being TOO stiff.
. Still a consideration though. I like that idea. Maybe a slight compensation with a larger front 20" tire? I looked into 20" Trials forks at one point but the local R&M mechanic/tech frowned at this as being TOO stiff.
novocaine
Old School Grand Master
whats the axle to crown measurement. you maybe able to run a 26" fork with some modifications to shorten the stroke. not like you need 100mm of travel on a cargo bike, 25mm would be great, have 25mm positive and 10mm negative and you'd be golden I'd have thought.
MuchAlohaNui
Senior Retro Guru
Good question and good idea. I have a 98'/99' Sid that is visually disgusting, maybe that?
Measurement is: about 295 mm.
There is room from the current tire to the crown for at least another 20mm. Maybe I can get a 22" tire on there for no good reason as well.
novocaine
Old School Grand Master
sid SL are 434mm ATC (I think they are only 80mm travel at though), so knocking out 50mm and you are still long.
I think you may have to accept a slight increase in head angle if you go down that road.
other option is looking at higher end SRs. the raidon for example that they do in 20", they are air sprung and a reasonble fork in the larger wheel size (never had an issue with mine in a 27.5" version).
I think you may have to accept a slight increase in head angle if you go down that road.
other option is looking at higher end SRs. the raidon for example that they do in 20", they are air sprung and a reasonble fork in the larger wheel size (never had an issue with mine in a 27.5" version).
grey-beard
Orange 🍊 Fan
This looks like a proper 20" fork, if you can find one anywhere?
slam69.co.uk
Manitou Machete J-UNIT Expert Suspension Fork - 20", 24"
Manitou Machete J-UNIT Boost Suspension Fork This Boost-spaced mountain bike (MTB) fork is ready for the trails, with a robust straight-wall aluminium leg construction that makes it hard-wearing against impacts and obstacles. Its high-quality 32mm chassis is also kitted out with a 1.5" tapered...
slam69.co.uk
As a cyclist of long standing, and the vast majority here we all know about easing up when shifting, but as to 'eating drivetrains' well there I have to disagree.
I've a new XO 10 spd mech and shifter waiting in the wings to replace the 12spd came with the bike. So I have been using the original mech, rings,chain for the last 2 years and no slippage whatsoever. Whats more I only use turbo, and only really use 3 or 4 gears.
Shoe size 46. The part of the frame just behind thew box where the frame goes out at an angle i found on a demo i impacted more than once. Maybe I had my foot too far forward, but i would say thats my natural foot position and if it happened there, its more than likely going to happen again. I'd rather not be distracted by things like that, its all about concentration and being on the ball and fully aware when on the roads
MuchAlohaNui
Senior Retro Guru
I can live with a head angle increase. Will make the bike a tad less squirly too. I looked into modding 26" to 20". Seems to only be possible with Manitou 1,2 or 3's and access to a lathe. But in my search, I stumbled upon a few recumbant forums with fork recommendations. Also, I think springs and polymers is less drama in the long run over air/oil seels and frequent rebuilds. Thoughts?sid SL are 434mm ATC (I think they are only 80mm travel at though), so knocking out 50mm and you are still long.
I think you may have to accept a slight increase in head angle if you go down that road.
other option is looking at higher end SRs. the raidon for example that they do in 20", they are air sprung and a reasonble fork in the larger wheel size (never had an issue with mine in a 27.5" version).
I will look into that, thank you!This looks like a proper 20" fork, if you can find one anywhere?
Manitou Machete J-UNIT Expert Suspension Fork - 20", 24"
Manitou Machete J-UNIT Boost Suspension Fork This Boost-spaced mountain bike (MTB) fork is ready for the trails, with a robust straight-wall aluminium leg construction that makes it hard-wearing against impacts and obstacles. Its high-quality 32mm chassis is also kitted out with a 1.5" tapered...
Like the chain data I posted above, maybe Shimano components wear out a bit early compared to Sram. This R&M came with a Deore drivetain and self destructed around 8 months into owning. The entire cassette was worthless. Three Deore chains and the pulleys in the derailleur were nub teeth. The derailleur folded in on itself on an incline with myself and a kid, granny gear, full torque, no additional load. As stated above this bike is 50 kg static.
Right now I am going about 12 months with the XTR/Sunrace/Sram drivetrain. About four months ago the XTR shifter began mis-shifting/no shifting. The internals are metal primarily. Two calipers have cracked at the pistons, XTR m9120. All installed by shops to retain warranties.
Long-winded post. To summarize, e-bikes in my opinion eat drive trains prematurely simply due to the added element of adding full torque via a motor at the very beginning of the pedal stroke while there is still zero to very low inertia. Maybe I need to switch to Sram stuff over the long haul? Your setup is an example of longevity. You are primarily a Sram user? I would like to read more
grey-beard
Orange 🍊 Fan
As far as drive train longevity is concerned on the ebike, I have used the same SRAM GX 10 speed mech and shifter on 3 different bike conversions, moving the bafang motor, battery and drive train from one bike to the other. The cassettes seem to last really well, the last one about 3 years, the chains last almost a year generally, maybe 2000 miles? I don't get the cheapest SRAM bits, but certainly not the top end stuff as, to me, it seems that all you're gaining is light weight rather than strength. Clean and lube the chain regularly, it will last longer that way.
My Larry Vs Harry Bullitt was ridden for a year or more non electric but when I purchased it, it came with an electric front hub and all the kit as well as the standard front wheel, but the electric wasn’t working as it had a fault.
I stripped it all off and put the standard front wheel on as well as a lot of cargo hauling mods.
About 18 months ago I took the whole electric package to a friend who owns the local Bike shop and is always building electric conversions to see if he can work out what’s wrong with it and if it is any good to begin with. As far as I knew it was a good age and was supposedly a prototype specifically for cargo use.
He came back and said it is just a shorting controller, probably pick one on eBay for £40 or so and that the motor was indeed a good torque motor that when hooked up to the five stage controller was clearly pre legislation as it was very good on their bench.
This is where it then went back in the shed where it sat for i don’t know, maybe 10 months or so until the start of the following winter, when I was hauling some bags of dog feed thinking ‘I am too old for this shite’. Then I went home and looked into a new controller, as well as trying to educate myself on all things bicycle electrics.
I had some really great advice and help from a seller down south who explained what I needed and sent through a controller and a load of connectors as well.
Job done and WOW!
I am still that old school that once thought it was cheating or a practice to be shunned but that attitude mellowed when I see with the cargo bike I can now go a lot further, and quicker when going camping or on trips, I can commute easier and much quicker than before, haul more, further, so a big benefit, and makes a fun ride even more so.
I will add some photos here later as on my phone having a cuppa and just came across this cool thread with some great posts and just wanted to join in.
Jamie
I stripped it all off and put the standard front wheel on as well as a lot of cargo hauling mods.
About 18 months ago I took the whole electric package to a friend who owns the local Bike shop and is always building electric conversions to see if he can work out what’s wrong with it and if it is any good to begin with. As far as I knew it was a good age and was supposedly a prototype specifically for cargo use.
He came back and said it is just a shorting controller, probably pick one on eBay for £40 or so and that the motor was indeed a good torque motor that when hooked up to the five stage controller was clearly pre legislation as it was very good on their bench.
This is where it then went back in the shed where it sat for i don’t know, maybe 10 months or so until the start of the following winter, when I was hauling some bags of dog feed thinking ‘I am too old for this shite’. Then I went home and looked into a new controller, as well as trying to educate myself on all things bicycle electrics.
I had some really great advice and help from a seller down south who explained what I needed and sent through a controller and a load of connectors as well.
Job done and WOW!
I am still that old school that once thought it was cheating or a practice to be shunned but that attitude mellowed when I see with the cargo bike I can now go a lot further, and quicker when going camping or on trips, I can commute easier and much quicker than before, haul more, further, so a big benefit, and makes a fun ride even more so.
I will add some photos here later as on my phone having a cuppa and just came across this cool thread with some great posts and just wanted to join in.
Jamie
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