Shimano Exage hub servicing, parts etc for noob?

[Malvern Rider]

My 1989 British Eagle tourer has some Ambrosios built on to Exage RM50 hubs

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-HB-RM50-0981B.pdf

I haven’t cleaned, greased and restocked a hub since maybe the year this bike was built! So going in completely in the dark. I can find the ballbearings online, and have read something (online) about possibly swapping these old seal rings (?) for some 105 (SC?) ones as they are compatible but superior? Also something about cups and cones.

so while I’m ordering the bearings I thought I’d ask if anyone here please has advice/pointers on how to go about a service and where to source service kit/parts?

 

[RetroDavy]

I'm sure there are other good sources but SJS has a great range of parts for Shimano hubs (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/) and could be somewhere to look. There are also some NOS RM50s on eBay that could be a source of 'new' cones and seals if not available elsewhere, e.g. front hub at £10. But I'd be tempted to strip the hubs before deciding and only order cones and seals if the current ones are pitted / torn respectively. Depending on levels of wear and tear, new bearings and grease might be all that's needed. A couple of spanners, one of them being a cone spanner, of the right sizes is all that you'll need to take them apart.

 

[Malvern Rider]

Thanks RetroDavy for the advice

I did actually check SJS but drew a blank? So figured these being so old they’re not supported. They look cool and classy though. Simplest of lines. Hopefully the cones aren’t pitted and the seals are reusable. Won’t be tackling it until midweek but at least now have a starting point so thnks again

 

[RetroDavy]

They are very nice hubs.

Shimano compatibility is a minefield. I wonder if these could be a fit (as an e.g. for the rear), if it comes to that: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spa...ear-right-cone-seal-ring-m10-x-15mm-30g-9050/. They're listed as compatible with HG-50 and the dimensions of the cones look very similar (M10 x 15mm vs 15.1mm): https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/FH-HG50/EV-FH-HG50-1107A.pdf

But, I'm sure others will know better and I don't know these parts well enough to say. Fingers crossed the originals will be fine!

 

[pigman]

Exage hubs are simple and durable but mid to low on shimanos equipment levels.

Personally, I'd strip them to have a looksee and if both cup and cones are in good order, simply replace the balls. I personally wouldn't spend lots on seals, cup and cones unless they have sentimental value.
A lightly used good and possibly better grade of hub can be found on the second hand market for less than you'll spend in parts.
Saying that, that would mean rebuilding the wheel, which may not be need rebuilding and would only add further cost and inconvenience

 

[Malvern Rider]

Thnks pigman. Definitely more functional than bling or sentimental. The bike was also a budget buy for utility and touring, so running costs need to be kept to a minimum. The rims seem good for a while yet, so hope is that if there’s little (or no) pitting I can just replace bearings and grease then run the wheels into the ground. Will be looking for wider (internal) rims next time as these are good for 28c but not 32c. As it is they’re nice (Ambrosio Super Elite handbuit with DT Swiss spokes). As for the hubs the front one does feel quite ‘notchy’ and resistent at one point of rotation - so planned dismantling/inspecting is causing me some trepidation

 

[Jonny69]

You'll need a thin cone spanner to get the locknuts undone. I think it's 14mm on those. Have something underneath to catch all the balls. Clean the races out. Line the races with a fillet of plain old lithium grease and use the grease to stick the balls into and they'll stay in place. Reassemble. On the rear one, if it's a Uniglide hub, the cone will be slightly in the freehub body. You'll have to undo the non-drive side first to get to it.

 

[hamster]

If the hub feels notchy then often it's simply too tight - Shimano ones seem always too tight ex-factory.

I've generally given up routinely swapping bearings etc. I back the LHS cone off about 5mm until I can see inside - pushing the axle across allows the RHS to be checked too. If the grease is clean both sides I stuff it full of grease from the nozzle of the gun and retighten. I only dismantle if it's a rusty mess. If grease doesn't ooze out on tightening it's not enough. Grease is cheap, it wets out seals and there is then no space for water to invade. However I pay a lot of attention to getting bearing tension right - it should have the tiniest amount of axle play with the QR loose.

 

[JoeH]

If the hub feels notchy then often it's simply too tight - Shimano ones seem always too tight ex-factory.

I've generally given up routinely swapping bearings etc. I back the LHS cone off about 5mm until I can see inside - pushing the axle across allows the RHS to be checked too. If the grease is clean both sides I stuff it full of grease from the nozzle of the gun and retighten. I only dismantle if it's a rusty mess. If grease doesn't ooze out on tightening it's not enough. Grease is cheap, it wets out seals and there is then no space for water to invade. However I pay a lot of attention to getting bearing tension right - it should have the tiniest amount of axle play with the QR loose.

That's exactly what I do too!

 

[JoeH]

My 1989 British Eagle tourer has some Ambrosios built on to Exage RM50 hubs

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-HB-RM50-0981B.pdf

I haven’t cleaned, greased and restocked a hub since maybe the year this bike was built! So going in completely in the dark. I can find the ballbearings online, and have read something (online) about possibly swapping these old seal rings (?) for some 105 (SC?) ones as they are compatible but superior? Also something about cups and cones.

so while I’m ordering the bearings I thought I’d ask if anyone here please has advice/pointers on how to go about a service and where to source service kit/parts?

Stick some pics up of the cones and cup surfaces.