Mountain Cycle Shockwave 9.5 revamp. 14.7kg final weight.
- Thread starter synchronicity
- Start date
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
A quick in-car snap of a quick-polished upper crown, ready for anodising.
I was in two minds whether to paint or anodise this part.
Since I've got no skill spray painting, decided to go the anodising route.
I thought it would be cheaper, my how costs have gone up over the last 2 decades.
I have opted for a bright (glossy) black finish.
Wish me luck, 'cause it's a very black or white outcome with this one;
It'll either work and look great or it won't work at all (if it's a casting) and come out looking super crappy.
I don't think it's cast, so I decided to take my chances.
If it doesn't work I guess I'll just have to powder coat it or something.
I hope and pray that it works.
I was in two minds whether to paint or anodise this part.
Since I've got no skill spray painting, decided to go the anodising route.
I thought it would be cheaper, my how costs have gone up over the last 2 decades.
I have opted for a bright (glossy) black finish.
Wish me luck, 'cause it's a very black or white outcome with this one;
It'll either work and look great or it won't work at all (if it's a casting) and come out looking super crappy.
I don't think it's cast, so I decided to take my chances.
If it doesn't work I guess I'll just have to powder coat it or something.
I hope and pray that it works.
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
Change of plans. The anodiser thinks this part might be cast. And I'm not so sure it's forged because the four M6 direct mounts protrude quite a bit from the surface (which seems to indicate it might not be forged).
I decided it's not worth the risk to anodise. Because if it's not either wrought or billet, it totally wrecks the finish.
Plus it was more expensive than I thought @AUD$100.
So I have decided to spray paint it. I bought a can of etch primer and a can of glossy epoxy enamel.
I decided it's not worth the risk to anodise. Because if it's not either wrought or billet, it totally wrecks the finish.
Plus it was more expensive than I thought @AUD$100.
So I have decided to spray paint it. I bought a can of etch primer and a can of glossy epoxy enamel.
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
This is how it looks with the primer undercoat.
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
Handlebar:
Stem:
Stem:
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
It's in a bit of a sorry state at the moment, partially dismantled/disassembled.
It has to get worse before it gets better again.
It has to get worse before it gets better again.
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
Here's how it looks with most of the parts on.
All that's missing are the chain, chain guide (blackspire), chain tensioner (blackspire) and grips.
Weight as pictured by my scales without all that = 15.35kg.
I'll try to get better pics in the coming days.
All that's missing are the chain, chain guide (blackspire), chain tensioner (blackspire) and grips.
Weight as pictured by my scales without all that = 15.35kg.
I'll try to get better pics in the coming days.
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
Rear end feels quite progressive, probably too much so for my style of riding.
So I was thinking about getting a more linear rate linkage made. It really depends on the price of 3D printing in aluminium.
I was going to get a few plastic versions made up first before committing to anything metal.
But of course I need to ride it and see.
So I was thinking about getting a more linear rate linkage made. It really depends on the price of 3D printing in aluminium.
I was going to get a few plastic versions made up first before committing to anything metal.
But of course I need to ride it and see.
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
Had my first ride of this yesterday. Just up and down the street to check everything over before taking it out on a proper [offroad] maiden voyage.
As you can probably see I've gone for 24" wheels.
I was hoping it wouldn't be too drastic compared to 26"...
... aaand it's not.
The whole bike now sits ~1" lower than before. 'Cause I felt the bike was a bit tall and unwieldy in it's previous incarnation.
I tried achieving this a different way (by getting a 8.75" x 2.75" shock, which is about 222mm instead of 240mm), but it lowered the arse end too much. Just didn't feel right.
Other than that, rear brake seems a bit... "mushy" and lacking stopping ability.
I'm not sure if it's because it's only a twin piston on the rear not quad.
Or whether it's because the rotor was a bit rusty.
Or whether it's because the pads haven't bedded in properly yet.
Or whether it's because these are organic pads (I usually opt for sintered)
Anyway, looking forward to trying this out properly!
As you can probably see I've gone for 24" wheels.
I was hoping it wouldn't be too drastic compared to 26"...
... aaand it's not.
The whole bike now sits ~1" lower than before. 'Cause I felt the bike was a bit tall and unwieldy in it's previous incarnation.
I tried achieving this a different way (by getting a 8.75" x 2.75" shock, which is about 222mm instead of 240mm), but it lowered the arse end too much. Just didn't feel right.
Other than that, rear brake seems a bit... "mushy" and lacking stopping ability.
I'm not sure if it's because it's only a twin piston on the rear not quad.
Or whether it's because the rotor was a bit rusty.
Or whether it's because the pads haven't bedded in properly yet.
Or whether it's because these are organic pads (I usually opt for sintered)
Anyway, looking forward to trying this out properly!
synchronicity
Senior Retro Guru
Here it is in slightly better lighting. The dog in the backround [rescue greyhound] weighs significantly more!
Weight as pictured ~15.85kg. I still have a few ways to reduce weight a bit (albeit not much).
Rear brake has bedded in, now performs much better.
All I need to do now is cut the steerer tube.
But because it's a direct mount stem, there's almost no margin for error. That's why I've been putting this task off. So I will raise the top clamp 1cm to give a bit more room for error, and put the 1cm of spacers underneath.
Seatpost at maximum extension as I was just riding on mostly flat ground. Saddle a bit too far forward (I was trying to move my weight distribution forward a bit as I think my rear spring is slightly too soft), I may need a 500lb spring.
I was pleased to see that the compression damping works pretty well to eliminate pedal bob, which I think was always a problem on big travel single pivot bikes wasn't it? Although only ~5 clicks of adjustment; I was expecting more range than that.
I had trouble running the chain guard + tensioner simulteaneously. I soon found out that they're not meant to be run together. I may actually run the bike without them as the rear derailleur has a clutch mech (my first one) and the chainring is narrow-wide which supposedly helps with chain retention.
Will probably move up to a 12-23T cassette (from 11-21T) though when funds allow and/or smaller chainring.
Overall, I'm happy with it!
I'll try to get some better pics another time...
Weight as pictured ~15.85kg. I still have a few ways to reduce weight a bit (albeit not much).
Rear brake has bedded in, now performs much better.
All I need to do now is cut the steerer tube.
But because it's a direct mount stem, there's almost no margin for error. That's why I've been putting this task off. So I will raise the top clamp 1cm to give a bit more room for error, and put the 1cm of spacers underneath.
Seatpost at maximum extension as I was just riding on mostly flat ground. Saddle a bit too far forward (I was trying to move my weight distribution forward a bit as I think my rear spring is slightly too soft), I may need a 500lb spring.
I was pleased to see that the compression damping works pretty well to eliminate pedal bob, which I think was always a problem on big travel single pivot bikes wasn't it? Although only ~5 clicks of adjustment; I was expecting more range than that.
I had trouble running the chain guard + tensioner simulteaneously. I soon found out that they're not meant to be run together. I may actually run the bike without them as the rear derailleur has a clutch mech (my first one) and the chainring is narrow-wide which supposedly helps with chain retention.
Will probably move up to a 12-23T cassette (from 11-21T) though when funds allow and/or smaller chainring.
Overall, I'm happy with it!
I'll try to get some better pics another time...
