dwelling if my bikes to big ( pic added )

Re: dwelling if my bikes to big

Osella":3pc3xpv1 said:
If there's under 1" of seatpost showing, then theoretically the frame is the 'right' size in road sizing, but for MTB yuo'd normally take a couple of inches off that for 'comfort' ;) so yeah, 16".
I think you might need to rethink your numbers there. Under 1" of seatpin showing for anything remotely modern would make the frame far far too big. Even with a level top tube. Even a touring frame (with its relatively higher bars) Is going to have more than 1" of seatpin showing!

Older frames (pre 80s I would guess) with very nearly square geometry you might be right. But not now!
 
Re: dwelling if my bikes to big

The amount of seatpost showing isn't really important. The main issue is whether the bike is too long for you, and I would have thought almost certainly it is. A size 16 Bantu apparently has an effective top tube length of 565mm and that is generally suitable for a 5-5 rider, whereas nobody of your height would generally ride an 18.

Having said that, the difference in top tube lengths between the two sizes is 20mm, so you are right to say that using a 70mm stem instead of 90 would make the bike fit you a lot better. Bear in mind though that the stem length is an important part of how the bike steers and the 90mm stem was chosen to give a good balance with the 69 degree head angle and the 120mm fork. Fitting a 70mm stem would make the steering much faster, and you might find it felt too twitchy for your taste. But then again tastes vary, and you might find you preferred it.

I think you would be much better off with a size 16, but just changing the stem would be much cheaper and definitely worth trying.
 
Re: dwelling if my bikes to big

Thanks guys. Thanks for going in depth. anthony you have hit the nail on the head in what i was thinking but i didnt realy think about the steering ect. Will get my hands on a cheap smaller stem an see how it fairs. Thanks
 
That looks significantly too big.

But, with a shorter stem and losing the spacer stack under the stem, it might be Ok. (It'll bring the bars closer and lower)
Might be more comfortable.
 
ok thanks, starting to think might let it go an save for a 16inch, do like the look of the on one frames
 
Careful with on one sizing, they are very long and low. We ended up going down a size to get a sensible top tube length.
 
Think it says on there site run very small stem. Like 50/60mm be a while till i get anything unless i do a swap . I will do some digging on the next one thats for sure
 
Your overall height and inside leg are not the be all and end all. I'm 5'7" and generally ride a 16" retro frame but a lot of modern 16s are just way to short for me as I have stumpy legs and a long back.
This is why my 16" kona with it's long top tube is my favorite. I run it with an 80mm stem giving me perfect reach, but the silly low top tube junction with the seat tube gives me a roomy 3" standover clearance.

Two of my other bikes are 18s though as the top tube lengths are not as long as konas. Standover is compromised for me, but they ride right.
 
For some reason I have a link to this chat for frame sizing, must have looked at it for some reason.

Seems to work quite well.
http://www.ebicycles.com/custom/content ... -bikes.pdf

It pulls me out as a modern 19" frame size (19.5" if you use their only calc, i'm 5' 9.5/10" and 33.5/34"), which is what I would go for pretty much what I ride retro (19"/20") I find retro 18.5 and smaller small for me.

It put you on the 16" frame, top end so a 17" would probably be fine too.

or go crazy and use

With all the details on how to measure properly and more.
I think it still came out as 19/19.5" for me.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store ... orBike.jsp


Then as you've found out, go ride one and see how it feels as that's the start point sorted.
 
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