Dave Russell - Back to Blue

I'm going to reuse the spokes to rebuild the wheels since they look in pretty good shape. However, I'm definitely no spoke-whisperer who can determine tension by flicking the spokes like a piano tuner. Therefore, step one is to calibrate my tensiometers for these specific spokes.

I knocked up this tension gauge a while back using a crane scale.

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Just need to thread in one of the old spokes.

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And try to replicate the angle of the spoke when it will be sitting in the wheel jig.

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Then crank up the tension in approx. 10kg increments taking readings as you go.

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Once done, you can then plug the numbers into Excel and approximate the readings to a linear graph.

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The linear approximation can then be used to calculate a bespoke tension chart.

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Google had convinced me I needed a 23.35mm diameter extractor for the Stronglight cranks. Turns out I didn't, so I am now the proud parent of a 22mm, 23mm and 23.35mm crank extractor family. Are there any more sizes out there...

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One wheel down and the next one started.

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This went through 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease. Followed by the buffing wheel and finished off with Autosol. Unfortunately there were a couple of gouges which I couldn't get out, but happy enough with the final result.

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Anyone got any views on whether these were likely to have been original on the bike? They are going to stay because they ooze quality, but it does seem to be a bit of a mish-mash of components.

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I'm sure the forks are not original - Dave never used Columbus tubing or that sort of aero fork crown as far as I'm aware. Grew up near Slough and spent a lot of time around his shop and lots of us had his frames at some point.
 
I'm sure the forks are not original - Dave never used Columbus tubing or that sort of aero fork crown as far as I'm aware. Grew up near Slough and spent a lot of time around his shop and lots of us had his frames at some point.
Your probably saw a few Jack Hearnes also then 🙂
 

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