Another day another problem

[Perrin21]

I've managed to sort out the annoying clicking noise from my XTR952 9 speed crank by replacing the chain with a narrower one from KMC however it seems now my old 1995 XT front mech is not lifting enough to clear my 46 tooth chainring. My frame is carbon and has a strange front mech hanger, will a conventional XTR mech fit or will I need to modify it somehow to fit the bracket? Here's a pic.

 

[itscervo]

Pleased to hear you've managed to find a way round the niggle.
XT cage has smaller radius than the Xtr, the Xtr mechs you might be able to fit are M953 or M950e type.
M953 available in 31.8 & 34.9
M950e type is a bb mount, but needs a support from the seat tube.

 

[Perrin21]

Re:

Well that appears to have put a spanner in the works. I can't see any 953 mechs for sale. Will it just fit using the conventional clamp or will it work using the bracket on the bike? Do you have any pics?

 

[cherrybomb]

Re:

That's a standard braze on mount- more commonly found on road frames.

Not sure you can get XTR mechs for braze on mounts, but it looks like you could use a standard band mount if you just remove the whole lot from the seat tube.

 

[Perrin21]

Re:

That's what I'm thinking. Are all xtr 950 top pull mechs 9 speed?

 

[itscervo]

Re: Re:

That's what I'm thinking. Are all xtr 950 top pull mechs 9 speed?

M950 are 8 speed, M952 9 speed are top swing in top or bottom pull. M953 9 speed bottom swing, top or bottom pull.
I don't know of any Xtr direct mounts.
Link to very poor quality :facepalm: tablet photos of M953 top pull.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ttaodwwzgvjw ... -djrm1EROa

 

[Perrin21]

Re:

Will bottom or top swing be best? It will need to be top pull. I'm assuming just clamps straight on.

 

[ishaw]

I'd be a little wary of using a normal clamp mech for a couple of reasons. 1. Giant must have fitted the mounting clamp for a reason. 2. With the clamp removed you are going to be left with a couple of holes over which your standard clamp mech will fit. Will the frame be weakened as a result and possibly break due to the forces of the front mech?

I say wary, just things I'd consider myself before taking the plunge.

You could get a more modern direct mount front mech though this might require some modification. I'm not versed in such things. An e-type front mech with a clamp around the seat tube for the upper mount on the mech might be the safest option. You might even be able to modify or make a mounting plate to use the existing holes?

 

[FluffyChicken]

apart from it's a road bottom bracket and there is no space for an e-type mech.

I both normal and top-swing would maybe fit, Top-swing would be touch and go as you may be near a curve in the tube, can't quite tell.
Normal would clamp about where the top bolt is fitted, as long as it's not a raised bolt hole or you don't mind milling the back of the band (or using a larger size band and using shims, missing the part that needs to be missed. It will probably work.

I would suggest trying one if you have one lying around or a retrobiker is near you.

Nothing to stop you making, finding a new mount plate to let it raise a bit more.

For the record, it is designed for a 44/42T top ring, looks like the frame is as well then.

 

[onegoodbike]

Re:

Just an idle thought on your issue.

Is it worth trying a 'road specific' triple front mech such as an Ultegra 6500 model?. They were for 9 speed set ups and the outer chainring on a road bike is normally over fifty teeth.

Although i'll add the caveat that the braze-on position may be higher on road frames to compensate for the larger chainring, but it might be worth a try?.