'91 Kona Cinder Cone - rolling resto

bertberr

Devout Dirtbag
Thought i'd post some pics of my trusty old '91 Cinder Cone. Started a rolling refurb about four months ago, as opposed to a full strip down and rebuild, as this is still my every day bike. I've admired many of the beautiful builds on this site, and one day perhaps she'll get the full works, so to speak.

I bought this bike new in '91, and when the first computer gave up the ghost circa 1999, the mileage was already up to 18000 odd - this was my only bike back then, so ride to work Mon-Fri, up the downs Sat/Sun - it had a hard life! Since then I probably added another 6-7000 miles before the bike was semi-retired in about 2003, i.e. it became a roadie only as cars / motorbikes were taking all my attention.

So, I've had her 18 years, and really wanted to just replace / refurb the worn bits ready for the next 18 years, but as often happens, what started out as just a basic driveline refurb soon extended to other things... I should point out at this stage that I'm not a rivet counter, so if you like em 'original' probably best to turn away now... (while I wanted to keep the general look as period as possible, my desire to keep the cost half sensible meant many of the parts were sourced off ebay or scavenged from mates or from the spares box in the shed, so not everything matches...).

Completed so far:

1. P2's blasted, powder coated and decaled up
2. Front rim braking surfaces cleaned (fine scotch-brite pads brilliant for this)
3. Headset bearings cleaned and re-greased (thought they would need replacing but both cups, races, bearings etc all in A1 condition!)
4. Replaced tired old stem (not velocity) with a Syncros cattleprod, NOS and looks great IMO
5. Fresh grips - Kona JackShits
6. Replaced knackered XC Ltd rear mech with new Deore LX, and to aid indexing etc I also swapped the XC Ltd thumbies for Deore DX thumbies
7. While they didn't really need changing I also swapped the XC Ltd brake levers for V-brake specific Deore levers & calipers - all the old suntour bits were sold on ebay for a good price.
8. New gear / brake cables & outers etc
9. New chain
10. Replaced black kalloy post with a smarter / lighter version - 26.4 very hard to find now...
11. Charge Spoon saddle

Still to do:
1. Rub back, prime and paint worn areas of frame, apply seal skins (will probably get the frame blasted and powder coated later next year...maybe white...!!!???)
2. Rear braking surfaces
3. Fit SPDs - M520's, never used em before so should be interesting...
4. Fit Cateye Strada wireless computer
5. Possibly swap original Kona 165 flat bars for a riser bar, and ditch the L-bend barends at the same time.

The rims are Campag Mirox and are actually period items. They replaced the rather buckled Ukai's around 1993. They're not the lightest hoops on the planet, but are bloody strong, and still look pretty good I think.

The only nagging problem is with the rear brake, the noodle won't sit properly in the cable holder - it pulls up at a 45 degree angle and while the brakes work OK, it does mean that I can't use the rubber boot. Tried different angle noodles, but no improvement. Thought perhaps it might be the caliper itself - are they front / rear specific???

Anyway, feel free to tell me what you like / don't like... I just hope the next 18 years are as enjoyable as the last!
 

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Rear noodle - I just bent mine into a suitable shape.

However - you're not using a std outer cable for to fit aforesaid noodle - this will have some bearing on things. What type of cable routing is used here, around the seatpost? Can't quite make it out :cry:

Nice package though - like black Konas :cool:
 
It looks great, keep it black.

I'm slightly surprised that the rear brake works at all, but I'm sure you could make it sit better than that and work better. I'm not familiar with the 1991 cable guides, but they're designed to be just guides not stops, so it looks as though maybe there's a plastic tube running through the alloy collar? The thing to do is to remove the plastic tube and make the collar act as a stop. So you use a suitable length of cable outer fitted into the noodle, and a plastic ferrule at the front end of the outer. It's better if you drill out the rear of the collar very carefully to the size where it will accept the plastic ferrule, although it will still work not too badly without drilling. The ferrule needs to be plastic so that it doesn't damage the collar over time. Nobody has yet proved that this arrangement will last for 18 years, but it does make the collar act as a perfectly functional cable stop.
 

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