'90 GT Tequesta Nimbus.....

[drcarlos]

Nice one - cheers Carl. I assume that the two notches on the bearing surface is to accept a tool that allows you to hold the freehub still while tightening the tube using the 10mm allen key?

Reckon this'll be a complete PITA to remove! I also think that someone has been here before to try and fix which is why I'm missing a tooth on the small cog!

Those two notches don't really serve any purpose at all as far as I can make out apart from to confuse you into thinking that they assist with removal! Once you place the free hub on to the hub body the splines engage and you can use these to tighten against.
I think you are correct about the missing tooth, they sometimes break when a cheap chain whip gives up.

Carl.

 

[sherlylock]

Those two notches don't really serve any purpose at all as far as I can make out apart from to confuse you into thinking that they assist with removal! Once you place the free hub on to the hub body the splines engage and you can use these to tighten against.
I think you are correct about the missing tooth, they sometimes break when a cheap chain whip gives up.

Carl.

Ah yes - of course, the freehub is splined to the main hub - forgot about that. Maybe the notches are there to enable the freehub to be dismantled (presumably in a shower of springs, ball bearings and other tiny carpet/floor coloured components)

 

[sherlylock]

To quote myself only a few weeks ago......

Trying to avoid a complete stripdown / rebuild at this point as I really enjoy riding this bike - going to treat this as a rolling restoration!

Bollox to that.....been collecting a few nice bits for the Tequesta recently so I thought I'd bite the bullet and strip it right down. Will be so much easier to polish out the scratches and touch up the paint work this way. Might even attack the stuck seatpost while I'm at it......

Lots of cable rub and chainsuck! Not quite sure how I'm going to blend in paintwork on a swirly effect pattern but hey....



Tabletop full of bits awaiting cleaning/painting/renovating....

 

[sherlylock]

New stuff.....just arrived.....

26 x 1.8 (to get through my rear u-brake) - seem to get good reviews and tan wall too.





They seem ludicrously cheap at £16.99 pair delivered with inner tubes...!

 

[sherlylock]

More bits....

XT u-brake pads - cheers Ash! (I assume these will fit my diacompe u-brake ok? took a bit of a punt with these tbh) and a new ebay-special no-brand headset. The old headset was gradually getting stiffer and stiffer and didn't respond particularly well to strip/regrease so decided to junk and replace.

 

[sherlylock]

Some more bits....a couple of nice GT branded waffle grips and toe straps as nice finishing touches (cheers Rob!). I've actually got a set of the GT pedals/clips in my parts bin from a MT Shasta Tempest (a GT sub-brand I believe?) that I found a boot sale last year so for Rob to include the toe-straps is an added bonus - it means I can complete the pedal set for a bit more originality.

Just a stuck seatpost now sits between a pile of bits becoming a re-built bike......

 

[chrisv40]

Re:

Can't believe I've only just found this thread!

Love that colour scheme that would fit perfectly in my collection

Looking forward to further updates.

 

[sherlylock]

Re: Re:

Can't believe I've only just found this thread!

Love that colour scheme that would fit perfectly in my collection

Looking forward to further updates.

It's been a bit of a slow burner this - but I've taken the plunge to fully strip down and restore.

Coming a bit unstuck (unfortunately not literally) when it comes to the seized seatpost though. Tried to freeze it out on 2 occasions so far but have failed. It's a bit tricky as the head of the seatpost is loose so I've had to cross drill and put a bolt through. This is great as it gives me something to stop the post rotating in the vice but after a bit of abuse the seatpost tears around the crossdrilled hole.

Looking likely that I may be hacksawing this one out. Going to look at fabricating a simple tool to insert the blade into to keep it rigid and then carefully saw through the post lengthways to relieve the tension. I know it's going to be tedious but needs must.....

Anyone know whether the caustic soda route (to melt it out) damages the paintwork with the heat created? The last thing I want to do is damage the paintwork!!

 

[sherlylock]

Happiness is......





Made up a tool to hold a 32tpi hacksaw blade and spent 2 1/2hrs last night carefully hacksawing 3x slots in the seatpost. Managed to peel out a slither and then compress the post in on itself which allowed it to be pulled out.

Cue a small victory dance around the kitchen at 12.30 this morning!

I'd been presumptuous enough to order a new seatpost earlier in the week so hopefully that should turn up today so I can start the rebuild proper!

 

[sherlylock]

So with the seatpost out I'm in a position to be able to start cleaning up the paintwork ready for the rebuild.

There's plenty of stone chips/cable rub/chainsuck to sort out:





Attacked it all with a bottle of Kurust to stabilise the rust before painting over.

I took the stem down to Halfords to see if I could match up a blue and a white in their range of rattle cans & it turns out Lada Adriatic blue is actually a dam good colour match. Who knew?

The swirly nimbus paintjob is actually a blessing in disguise when it comes to blending in paint repairs. Using ripped newspaper as a mask it's possible to spray really localised patches and blend into the existing paintwork.

The top of the seatpost tube has been re-sprayed here with a mix of blue/white to cover a couple of large stone chips.