1997 Nuke Proof Reactor hardtail

[syncrosfan]

"Still, that won't cover the fact that I need to have the bb and bottle bosses tapped"
I still have to deal with the BB tapping. I got the proper cutters(not the chasing tools but proper machine cutters to do the job from scratch), now I have to make some monstrous contraption to be able to square off the frame in the milling machine at work. The bottle bosses are going to be crimped in like most frames out there (super easy to do, no tapping involved just finding the right size hardware).
You will have to deal with reaming the seat-tube out as well. There are some welding remains sticking out on the inside of the seat tube junction with the seat-stays which will require an adjustable reamer to deal with. I did it to my frame, now it takes a 31.8 seat-post (was a pain to find a black syncros seat-post in that size).
I checked on the roundness of the head-tube as well and there is definitely some ovalisation from welding... the problem is: A. there is no reamer in that size, B. to do the job requires an adjustable boring bar setup and a lot of work getting the frame squared off on the mill, and then the headset cups won't really fit anymore because you remove material. I did that to the raw aluminum frame I have, but the headset cups are now too small, so I'm thinking about just pressing in the headset cups I have in the painted frame and hope that the fit will be good enough with the over-sized bearings having less alignment issues (maybe some green loctite to bridge some gaps).
Getting an unfinished frame is a giant pain in the ass...

 

[syncrosfan]

Good news guys! I just got an e-mail back from the CNC guy. The price on three sets of braces is going to be 275$(a set of upper and lower brace) with everything done and anodized.
A slight increase but still pretty good. I also asked him about the additional price of having the Nuke Proof logo engraved into the upper brace, he said it would be an additional 30$ if we do it before the anodizing(which makes the most sense) and 40$ if we do it after the anodizing (in case someone doesn't want the engraved logo, additional machine set-up cost). Here's a quick Idea of what that might look like.
Let me know if you're interested in having the engraved logo as well or not.

 

[ishaw]

I think that looks great to me. I'm in for the logo.

Don't suppose you could take some pics of the fixing bolts for the bearings/braces as the guy sourcing my bearings might be able to make them.

I'd better get saving......

 

[lowntegra]

looking good there guys! i have never completely tapped a BB shell, only chased horrible threads w the park (?) tool. always scary at best.

the h20 bosses are an easy fix, ive done those a bunch of times. just get the correct size nutsert (?) rivet tool thingy bobber.

syncrosfan - your unfortunate headtube situation is a tough one.... although i may offer some silly anecdotal evidence - while working at said shop, i once saw a guy come in, with a 1 1/8" threadless stem, JB Welded to a 1" steerer! We could not get that thing to budge for the life of us! crazy.

 

[syncrosfan]

Re:

Here are some pics of the fixing bolt/roller bearing race. The drawing is not to scale (go by dimensions)

You might not need to get saving if you got any of the following items for trade: (obviously some items might be worth more or some less than the braces)

1)V-Brakes: (levers and brakes preferably, but I'll take whatever you got)
Machine Tech, Avid Arch Rival Ultimate, Extralite

2) TWP or Kooka, Magura HS33 compatible hydro levers (black or red)

3) Westpine hubs (front, rear if you have one but that's a long shot)

4) Manitou quill stem 1 1/4" (140mm ish range, I have an threadless 1 1/8" one running with an adapter but I would like a proper quill stem)

5) Syncros alloy cranks (polished ones)

6) Tioga Disk Drive rear wheel (that's a really loong shot)

Anyway that's the stuff I'm looking for and if you have any of it we can do a trade if you want to.

 

[ishaw]

That's great thanks for the pic. What does the other end look like? Not having seen one in the flesh, would I be right in thinking that the bit pictured I'd what the bearing runs on and when the other end is fitted, a bolt runs through the middle holding it all together (with deliberately washers or equivalent in between)? Is the end not pictured threaded?

Sorry for the dumb questions.

I might have a mint set of polished syncros cranks by the way. Can't help with the other bits though I'm afraid.

 

[syncrosfan]

Re:

Here are some more pics of the assembly(courtesy of gis-guru). Hope this would shed some light into how everything goes together.
Let me know if you're interested in trading the syncros cranks. But I'm not super desperate to find them so it's OK if you rather hold on to them.

 

[ishaw]

Cheers, super helpful as always. So the cut out, what fits into it exactly?

 

[syncrosfan]

It's a pin that prevents it from spinning. I'll have to take my test mule apart tomorrow and then I can take some close up photos of the part it fits into.

 

[ishaw]

Just dredging this up. My bearing source failed me (well left the comoany) so I've got to start from scratch.

Did you ever get the braces made?

I'm still keen on building this up at some point, just need all the bits for the front.

Would a 145mm air shock work in the head tube?