sparkiegaz
Senior Retro Guru
Bit of a shitter,, the forks being like that feller,,,cleaned up pretty well tho..
1993 Marin Team Titanium
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PopsTrippin
Senior Retro Guru
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Really looking forward to seeing this come together
I know you know your stuff a lot better than me but my thinking is it's a '92... The reason for this is this, in the 93 catalogue the photo of Bob looking at The Golden Gate bridge his has Manitou 1's and a '92 style seat binder. I think the '93 model is the bead blasted one on page 4 of the '94 catalogue, that one has manitou 2's and the same style of decals as the '93 range??? I have been wrong before and probably am now but at least i have explained my thinking
Really looking forward to seeing this come together
I know you know your stuff a lot better than me but my thinking is it's a '92... The reason for this is this, in the 93 catalogue the photo of Bob looking at The Golden Gate bridge his has Manitou 1's and a '92 style seat binder. I think the '93 model is the bead blasted one on page 4 of the '94 catalogue, that one has manitou 2's and the same style of decals as the '93 range??? I have been wrong before and probably am now but at least i have explained my thinking
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Good work on those forks fella
Good work on those forks fella
Just a quick update.
In answer to the question regarding the brochures from Marin - they're actually misleading! They had a habit of featuring the previous years bikes because they liked the picture, or they were a 'race action shot 'of someone winning. The picture you refer to is advertising Bob and the Marin brand rather than the model available from Marin for that year. This frame is a '93, and the original owner confirmed that to me.
The removal of the wiper seals was a pain as the plastic had gone very brittle, and wasn't willing to bend its way out of the groove it sits in. A small screwdriver used carefully to pick it out was the only way...
After the seal should be the nylon bushing to take out...
Careful cleaning next...
Had a go at cleaning the stanchions using fine emery cloth. The result isn't that bad either. I guess the rough bits are hidden, and nothing slides against them either...
Moved my attention to the crown as well...
I realised that one of the lower nylon bushes was unaccounted for, and when I found it, unfortunately it was jammed in the bottom of one of the lower legs. I tried for over an hour with various implements to get it out before I made this...
A strategically placed and bent nail on the end of a child's toy! This was the fifth attempt at making the ideal tool for the job, using regular household items.
The lower legs are looking pretty sharp now they've had a good clean and rub with emery...
Here's what's needed for the rebuild...
Before that though, it's time to place the upper nylon bush back in the lower legs, and the clip the seal in on top of it...
Take the compression rod and build it up using the metal washer, rubber washer, and then rebound elastomer.
Insert the compression rod inside the stanchion until it pokes out of the bottom like so...
Once it's sticking out of the hole, then load it up with the compression elastomers taking care to ensure they have the plastic washers between each one.
Lower adjusters cleaned and ready to install again in the bottom of each leg...
The stanchions are ready to insert into the lower legs. Care must be taken to allow space to gently push the nylon bush inside the stanchion seal before you push the stanchions inside the legs as it won't go in any other way.
With the legs on the floor, apply pressure down, and using the long Allen key, turn the bolts into the holes at the bottom of the legs until they're firmly home. That's pretty much it, although I will now be polishing all the alloy to get a proper shine.
However, that would be too simple for this build wouldn't it? The bolts won't locate on mine. A thought popped into my head that they might be too short, and someone had cut them down in the past to work with the spring kit. B@stard!
I almost gave up...
Searching through my boxes of bits, I came across this bag...
What are the chances of that! I don't know why I bought them as I've never had Manitou 2's before, and they've been sat in the bottom of a shoe box for years. Anyway, as you can see on the right, my original rods have been cut down. The good thing about this kit is that it contains the bolts needed to lighten the crown too.
Now that I've used the elastomers, I'm curious as to what the spring kit would feel like if I restored it and tried that...
In answer to the question regarding the brochures from Marin - they're actually misleading! They had a habit of featuring the previous years bikes because they liked the picture, or they were a 'race action shot 'of someone winning. The picture you refer to is advertising Bob and the Marin brand rather than the model available from Marin for that year. This frame is a '93, and the original owner confirmed that to me.
The removal of the wiper seals was a pain as the plastic had gone very brittle, and wasn't willing to bend its way out of the groove it sits in. A small screwdriver used carefully to pick it out was the only way...
After the seal should be the nylon bushing to take out...
Careful cleaning next...
Had a go at cleaning the stanchions using fine emery cloth. The result isn't that bad either. I guess the rough bits are hidden, and nothing slides against them either...
Moved my attention to the crown as well...
I realised that one of the lower nylon bushes was unaccounted for, and when I found it, unfortunately it was jammed in the bottom of one of the lower legs. I tried for over an hour with various implements to get it out before I made this...
A strategically placed and bent nail on the end of a child's toy! This was the fifth attempt at making the ideal tool for the job, using regular household items.
The lower legs are looking pretty sharp now they've had a good clean and rub with emery...
Here's what's needed for the rebuild...
Before that though, it's time to place the upper nylon bush back in the lower legs, and the clip the seal in on top of it...
Take the compression rod and build it up using the metal washer, rubber washer, and then rebound elastomer.
Insert the compression rod inside the stanchion until it pokes out of the bottom like so...
Once it's sticking out of the hole, then load it up with the compression elastomers taking care to ensure they have the plastic washers between each one.
Lower adjusters cleaned and ready to install again in the bottom of each leg...
The stanchions are ready to insert into the lower legs. Care must be taken to allow space to gently push the nylon bush inside the stanchion seal before you push the stanchions inside the legs as it won't go in any other way.
With the legs on the floor, apply pressure down, and using the long Allen key, turn the bolts into the holes at the bottom of the legs until they're firmly home. That's pretty much it, although I will now be polishing all the alloy to get a proper shine.
However, that would be too simple for this build wouldn't it? The bolts won't locate on mine. A thought popped into my head that they might be too short, and someone had cut them down in the past to work with the spring kit. B@stard!
I almost gave up...
Searching through my boxes of bits, I came across this bag...
What are the chances of that! I don't know why I bought them as I've never had Manitou 2's before, and they've been sat in the bottom of a shoe box for years. Anyway, as you can see on the right, my original rods have been cut down. The good thing about this kit is that it contains the bolts needed to lighten the crown too.
Now that I've used the elastomers, I'm curious as to what the spring kit would feel like if I restored it and tried that...
parfumisme
Old School Hero
fab job. good use off emery cloth
thats for sure.
keep m coming
thats for sure.
keep m coming
PopsTrippin
Senior Retro Guru
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How's this looking now Ben?
How's this looking now Ben?
Having had some difficulty locating the long Titanium bolts into the lower legs, I asked a good friend (HarryCrumb) if he'd have a look and see if I was doing something wrong. It took him a good few attempts too - however they're done, and I'm very grateful, as rebuilding them 9 times was beginning to grate on me! Since dropping them off before Christmas, the frame must have been with him for at least 6 weeks, so it was time to get it back home and pick a day to carry on with the build up.
As I've never done a mock build of this bike before, everything is going together here for the first time, and I've not really checked through the shoebox of parts I've had stashed away for donkey's years. Subsequently, some little bits are missing or not quite appropriate, and the process of making/ordering these will hold me back from finishing it this week.
Anyway, on with the build up.
As the Pace steerer I've used doesn't have a crown race shim, I asked Chris (Rampage) to send one over, and a nice precise thing it is too.
With this installed, I could finally get everything together properly. First up, were the forks using a 1 1/8th threaded and logo-less period oversize Chris King headset (that uses a 36mm spanner!), and then the wheels, which were built up years ago, and have been stored away waiting for this day. They're pretty rare Nukeproof Titanium hubs, with Araya RM17 rims, DT alloy nipples, and DT DB spokes. The cassette is a NOS Tioga Titanium 8 speed, which is just a bit nicer than an M900. Lastly, the bar/stem combo that I bought from ATB Sales when they were still the main Marin distributors. I rang them years ago on the off chance that they had any decals or old brochures from the early 90's, and the conversation started flowing about how they've so little of the old stuff left. The guy recalled that they'd had to get a skip to bin all the Rockstar forks that nobody wanted as customers switched them all to suspension at the point of purchase! He then remembered that he had this Titanium bar/stem combo that they'd bought in, but nobody wanted, so it just sat on a shelf somewhere; probably due to the quick demise of quill stems, and the horrific £230 price tag in 1993. A very fair deal was struck, and it was quickly on its way to its first proper home. What's really nice, is that they've continued with the part blasting/part polishing theme on the stem too. Litespeed will have polished the stem, applied decals, blasted over it all, removed the decals, and then exposed the lovely polished logo within all the blasted Ti.
As I've never done a mock build of this bike before, everything is going together here for the first time, and I've not really checked through the shoebox of parts I've had stashed away for donkey's years. Subsequently, some little bits are missing or not quite appropriate, and the process of making/ordering these will hold me back from finishing it this week.
Anyway, on with the build up.
As the Pace steerer I've used doesn't have a crown race shim, I asked Chris (Rampage) to send one over, and a nice precise thing it is too.
With this installed, I could finally get everything together properly. First up, were the forks using a 1 1/8th threaded and logo-less period oversize Chris King headset (that uses a 36mm spanner!), and then the wheels, which were built up years ago, and have been stored away waiting for this day. They're pretty rare Nukeproof Titanium hubs, with Araya RM17 rims, DT alloy nipples, and DT DB spokes. The cassette is a NOS Tioga Titanium 8 speed, which is just a bit nicer than an M900. Lastly, the bar/stem combo that I bought from ATB Sales when they were still the main Marin distributors. I rang them years ago on the off chance that they had any decals or old brochures from the early 90's, and the conversation started flowing about how they've so little of the old stuff left. The guy recalled that they'd had to get a skip to bin all the Rockstar forks that nobody wanted as customers switched them all to suspension at the point of purchase! He then remembered that he had this Titanium bar/stem combo that they'd bought in, but nobody wanted, so it just sat on a shelf somewhere; probably due to the quick demise of quill stems, and the horrific £230 price tag in 1993. A very fair deal was struck, and it was quickly on its way to its first proper home. What's really nice, is that they've continued with the part blasting/part polishing theme on the stem too. Litespeed will have polished the stem, applied decals, blasted over it all, removed the decals, and then exposed the lovely polished logo within all the blasted Ti.
xxnick1975
Old School Grand Master
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Super work on the frame and the forks,
Well done
Well done
