1/8" or 3/32" half link chain for single speed mtb
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one_bad_mofo
Old School Hero
If you're running a tensioning device then you shouldn't ned to worry about a half link to get correct tension. Just set the chain almost right and then let the tensioner do its thing.
Wizard of OZ
Retrobike Rider
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I agree with MikeD. A chain made from half links just adds weight & a fashion statement. If a fashion statement is what you want there is no trouble with that, but there is not technical advantage.
First, half links are made from bent plates rather than flat as in a normal pitch chain. So they either stretch quicker (the pedalling force wants to straighten the plates) or are very heavy (over engineered plate thickness to counter act the straightening force). Usually they are just the heavy type. A light(er) one that stretches quicker will of corse wear the rings quicker & lead to jumping quicker. Most likely in turn leading to painful experience. So if pain & fashion are your thing use a half link chain for proper MTBing. If you just want to pootle down the pub or around town will be no difference in performance or wear really.
Secondly, 1/8" or 3/32"? I've used both & really can't tell the difference. There is a difference technically I'm told that 3/32" is stronger as it is designed to work when dragged across cogs under load when not in perfect alignment. So this suits most DIY single speed set ups as chain alignment is quite often not perfect. Where as a 1/8" chain, particular a good quality track version is not very forgiving. I have not real idea why track bikes or BMX bikes ect use a 1/8"chain & geared bikes use 3/32" chain but can imagine that the geared chain was an evolution of 1/8" chains. Can you imagine how dished a rear wheel would be if it needed to run a 7/8/9sp cog based on a 1/8" chain width? Anyway I think any minute advantage in getting the power down on a single speed through a 1/8" chain over a 3/322 chain is completely lost as your riding a mountain bike in the mud. I use 3/32 chains with no problems.
So there you go, my complete and unadulterated opinions on chains for a single speed. Hope you found it helpful. I like having a spray every once & a while.
P.S. what every you do use rings with decent teeth - now that’s better advice than any of the stuff I just bleated on about above.
First, half links are made from bent plates rather than flat as in a normal pitch chain. So they either stretch quicker (the pedalling force wants to straighten the plates) or are very heavy (over engineered plate thickness to counter act the straightening force). Usually they are just the heavy type. A light(er) one that stretches quicker will of corse wear the rings quicker & lead to jumping quicker. Most likely in turn leading to painful experience. So if pain & fashion are your thing use a half link chain for proper MTBing. If you just want to pootle down the pub or around town will be no difference in performance or wear really.
Secondly, 1/8" or 3/32"? I've used both & really can't tell the difference. There is a difference technically I'm told that 3/32" is stronger as it is designed to work when dragged across cogs under load when not in perfect alignment. So this suits most DIY single speed set ups as chain alignment is quite often not perfect. Where as a 1/8" chain, particular a good quality track version is not very forgiving. I have not real idea why track bikes or BMX bikes ect use a 1/8"chain & geared bikes use 3/32" chain but can imagine that the geared chain was an evolution of 1/8" chains. Can you imagine how dished a rear wheel would be if it needed to run a 7/8/9sp cog based on a 1/8" chain width? Anyway I think any minute advantage in getting the power down on a single speed through a 1/8" chain over a 3/322 chain is completely lost as your riding a mountain bike in the mud. I use 3/32 chains with no problems.
So there you go, my complete and unadulterated opinions on chains for a single speed. Hope you found it helpful. I like having a spray every once & a while.
P.S. what every you do use rings with decent teeth - now that’s better advice than any of the stuff I just bleated on about above.
1/8th chains are I think "better" in a straight run (and I don't think that the chain line on most s/s is sufficiently out to negate that). They are not as laterally flexible as 3/32 and would indeed be poor on a derailleur set up. For example, pre-1939 some 3 speed derailleur blocks MOVED in and out in order that the chain line remained constant whatever cog was being used.
There were major technical improvements in chain manufacture (as with many items) during WW2 and thus narrower chains were OK to move laterally across a block (altho' quite narrow 3 and 4 speed remained common for some time). Moving blocks did not re-appear after 1945.
PS FWIW when I was a keen fixed rider, my preference was for all 1/8th transmission. Second choice, 1/8th chain on 3/32 components (more forgiving of a slightly off chain line IMO - altho' not everyone would agree).
There were major technical improvements in chain manufacture (as with many items) during WW2 and thus narrower chains were OK to move laterally across a block (altho' quite narrow 3 and 4 speed remained common for some time). Moving blocks did not re-appear after 1945.
PS FWIW when I was a keen fixed rider, my preference was for all 1/8th transmission. Second choice, 1/8th chain on 3/32 components (more forgiving of a slightly off chain line IMO - altho' not everyone would agree).
theredchili
Old School Grand Master
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1 1/8" are recommended for single speed as are heavier duty, Im using one through a tensioner without any problems
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