The first two installments have met with such widespread acclaim that I have felt compelled to provide some further advice - it gives me such a warm feeling to be putting something back. So....
A natural concern when first going retro is how not to make a fool of yourself by turning up with a bike that will be met with derision. Follow what follows and you'll be instantly retro credible as well as simultaneously being incredibly attractive to the opposite sex and making impressionable teenage boys swoon in awe.
"Sounds a heady brew, but Ed, what do I need to do?" I hear you cry. Fear not dear colleague, you will have the secret within minutes but first I implore you to pause to make your peace with God/Allah/Imhotep/insert deity of preference for nothing will ever be the same again. Oh, and seek the permision of a responsible adult.
Build It Like A Pro
The following are fundamentals, a Nigel Slater recipe for success if you will. And like Mr. Slater's recipes, although it can be tempting to go a bit freeform jazz, deviate from them at your peril.
Frame - here you have a free reign, as long as early 90s
Forks must be as rigid as your thinking, preferably RC30s although any segmented 5 piece fork including segmented will do
preference
Quiet quality – so XT, no Ringle, Pauls, Kooka, M900 etc.
Decent saddle – bar drop
Stem - flat or only slightly rising long (135+, preferably 150+), should be Syncros although Control Tech also acceptable
Cranks - big and middle ring (latter only for show), preferably Middleburns
Flat bars - choose your own brand
Bar ends are usually fitted, must be stubbie
Saddle - only a Flite will do
Inline post preferably Syncros
Shims - use them when you can, they are your friends. My favourite are from Red Bull cans.
Thumbies - unless ss there is NO alternative. Feel free to run in friction mode.
Cantis must be fitted if there is a rear canti stop - V's on a frame with a canti stop is a cardinal error. They do not have to be set up to actually stop you.
Amberwall tyres - forget this and why bother? Usually narrow, typically at at least 60psi, higher if ground is firm.
British components within reason. Insert country of origin instead, if you really must.
Minimal or very subtle ano – silver and black rule
Mavic rims - no elaboration required.
SPDs - can be modern to demonstrate that you are open to new ideas.
To show that this isn't an easy process and even I had moments of uncertainty, I've attached two photos of the same bike (admittedly with a respray in between) for illustration. No prizes for spotting the differences/improvements.
I hope that is clear now but if you are unsure post here with queries.
Dropping advice like the sax solo in 'The Man With The Red Face'.
Ed
A natural concern when first going retro is how not to make a fool of yourself by turning up with a bike that will be met with derision. Follow what follows and you'll be instantly retro credible as well as simultaneously being incredibly attractive to the opposite sex and making impressionable teenage boys swoon in awe.
"Sounds a heady brew, but Ed, what do I need to do?" I hear you cry. Fear not dear colleague, you will have the secret within minutes but first I implore you to pause to make your peace with God/Allah/Imhotep/insert deity of preference for nothing will ever be the same again. Oh, and seek the permision of a responsible adult.
Build It Like A Pro
The following are fundamentals, a Nigel Slater recipe for success if you will. And like Mr. Slater's recipes, although it can be tempting to go a bit freeform jazz, deviate from them at your peril.
Frame - here you have a free reign, as long as early 90s
Forks must be as rigid as your thinking, preferably RC30s although any segmented 5 piece fork including segmented will do
preference
Quiet quality – so XT, no Ringle, Pauls, Kooka, M900 etc.
Decent saddle – bar drop
Stem - flat or only slightly rising long (135+, preferably 150+), should be Syncros although Control Tech also acceptable
Cranks - big and middle ring (latter only for show), preferably Middleburns
Flat bars - choose your own brand
Bar ends are usually fitted, must be stubbie
Saddle - only a Flite will do
Inline post preferably Syncros
Shims - use them when you can, they are your friends. My favourite are from Red Bull cans.
Thumbies - unless ss there is NO alternative. Feel free to run in friction mode.
Cantis must be fitted if there is a rear canti stop - V's on a frame with a canti stop is a cardinal error. They do not have to be set up to actually stop you.
Amberwall tyres - forget this and why bother? Usually narrow, typically at at least 60psi, higher if ground is firm.
British components within reason. Insert country of origin instead, if you really must.
Minimal or very subtle ano – silver and black rule
Mavic rims - no elaboration required.
SPDs - can be modern to demonstrate that you are open to new ideas.
To show that this isn't an easy process and even I had moments of uncertainty, I've attached two photos of the same bike (admittedly with a respray in between) for illustration. No prizes for spotting the differences/improvements.
I hope that is clear now but if you are unsure post here with queries.
Dropping advice like the sax solo in 'The Man With The Red Face'.
Ed
