The GT STS Thread Members Bikes and Tech Info

Just a little mod to my STS, noticed where the front mech cable came out, it had cut a groove into the surroundings, so had a flexible v-brake noodle, so cut it down and then fitted it through the hole (drilled out the hole from 4mm to 4.5mm), am going to run full gear and brake outers through the frame.

here tha new member of my gt family.......................






and this one maybe too.................after chrismas
near mint

Hopefully you guys can help..

just got a 1996 GT STS, that i am just making perfect before i start riding it.
Has some model Risse Racing rear shock. (presume a gensis from googling)



basically wondering about the bolt that goes through the bottom of it.


At the moment it is just a steel bolt with washers each side.
And no 'Spacer bushings'



Just wondering:
Do 98 and 96 model STS need the same bolt length (65mm)?
Does it need the washers?
What is the original bolt made out of (Alloy, Steel, Stainless?)
Wouldnt there be movement in this area and therefor wear away with out some bearings???
Do the risse racing dampers not require the original 'Spacer Bushings'?

Dxs":1nsbjwqn said:

Hopefully you guys can help..

just got a 1996 GT STS, that i am just making perfect before i start riding it.
Has some model Risse Racing rear shock. (presume a gensis from googling)



basically wondering about the bolt that goes through the bottom of it.

At the moment it is just a steel bolt with washers each side.
And no 'Spacer bushings'

Just wondering:
Do 98 and 96 model STS need the same bolt length (65mm)?
Does it need the washers?
What is the original bolt made out of (Alloy, Steel, Stainless?)
Wouldnt there be movement in this area and therefor wear away with out some bearings???
Do the risse racing dampers not require the original 'Spacer Bushings'?

Click to expand...

I had simlar problem when i need to source the lower mounting kit, I used a 70mm steel allen bolt, with a nylock nut, and steel washers, i cant see in the original setup that washers were used, but i thought it was be better to use them than without, you do not need ot tighten the nut up, as it nylock, and should not come loose, so you can leave movment built in still

I dont know about the risse stuff

cheers

well it seems as though there is some movable 'spacer bushing' on the bottom of the damper already.

And i am gonna order a bunch of stainless bolts for the calipers etc anyway, so thought i would get a new bolt.. manual says 65mm, so i might order that.. and run it with no washers like original


anyone elses thoughts?
is alloy possible (might wear the frame less, but have less strength)?

mattbrown":28vt2laq said:

Just a little mod to my STS, noticed where the front mech cable came out, it had cut a groove into the surroundings, so had a flexible v-brake noodle, so cut it down and then fitted it through the hole (drilled out the hole from 4mm to 4.5mm), am going to run full gear and brake outers through the frame.

Click to expand...

Nice mod matt..

Looking at mine, it just has some rubber outter, and the angle of the cable to the frame is pretty aggressive.. i am concerned about the cable cutting though. Might look into a similar mod to this.


I ordered a new stainless bolt for the bottom of the shock too.. and some alloy washers.

Did some minor work to the bike (still havent ridden it).

One thing was copy matt's idea.. so i have a 'vbrake noodle' for the front derailer now.



Trying to work out what year my frame is too..
Previous owner said it was a 96.. But it has a trunnion mount for the shock..

Anyone know what info the serial numbers can give?



Also rounded the top bolt for the bushing when torquing it down..
Hopefully generic countersunk bolts work..

www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk should be able to sort you out with correct nuts and bolts and things.

they only have roller bearing upgrade kits for 40USD + post
There is a place in the US that sells original parts too.


My bearings arent too bad.. just need the bolt.. will see if i can source it.



The manual says its a M8 bolt too.. then calls the nut 6mm.. bla, if they screw the sizes up, can i trust the torque values they state too :/



gonna get a tube spanner to get the nut undone, seeming as though in rounded the bolt

What i ment was they can probably help you find what you need. They are a machine shop, they know the bike in question, and can tell you what to look for, if they cant directly sell you what you need. Good luck regardless.