Hi everyone As I was saying earlier, the bosses can be different per bike per build. Also Shimano / Campagnolo are designed to hate each other, and frustrate builders in as many ways as they can. Lengths of bosses with 15years age difference between them can lead to this.
9 times out of 10 these things go unnoticed, and change overs are painless, but from time to time this case appears. In my own case it drove me nuts, because it was not logical. I eventually used common sense to make my levers work. In this case its worth remembering that these are late 80's levers going on an early - mid 70's bike. 1/8th of an inch, or even a 1/16th will not be easily seen with the eye, but those lock nuts look long to me, and will find that difference if its there.
ComSen = "Levers need friction to function properly, too much and they'll bind, too little and you have this problem."
Build the front mech lever as per usual, and if it works, leave it be If it binds really easy, perhaps too easy, then 1 of the shims used is not necessary (this will be your spare for the other side) OR the plastic/nylon friction part is for the other side. Try swapping them.
Now rebuild the rear mech lever. If it keeps slipping it needs more friction. More friction = another shim / spacer putting on before tightening I have spares here, just need a PM with an address in, and its on its way I won't tell anyone we cheated if you don't
shim = part F or G.
TIP 3 Try swapping the tightening nuts from 1 side to the other. To the eye they are the same part, but to the bosses there might be a subtle difference, enough to allow friction to occur.
Hope things work out for you Betty, my best to you, yours Laz.
PS: I am very happy that someone like you won the bike, it will be a beauty for sure once up and running, and be in excellent hands
Edit: on your pic you have marked L for the R, and R for the L. If your pic is correct, your part A's need to swap sides If its just your markings on the pic that are wrong ie you know the above already, then you are up against the issue of part A being for a different type of boss. I remembered when out riding before what it was that caught me out, it was my own part A. Some pass right over the boss, and some seat on the boss. This is where the extra height comes from that stops the tightening screw doing its job. Had this issue on my Paganini fitting synchro's in place of friction. Luckily I had bits to "make it fit". Twas only the R hand side that caused issues Later Betty, yours Laz.
9 times out of 10 these things go unnoticed, and change overs are painless, but from time to time this case appears. In my own case it drove me nuts, because it was not logical. I eventually used common sense to make my levers work. In this case its worth remembering that these are late 80's levers going on an early - mid 70's bike. 1/8th of an inch, or even a 1/16th will not be easily seen with the eye, but those lock nuts look long to me, and will find that difference if its there.
ComSen = "Levers need friction to function properly, too much and they'll bind, too little and you have this problem."
Build the front mech lever as per usual, and if it works, leave it be If it binds really easy, perhaps too easy, then 1 of the shims used is not necessary (this will be your spare for the other side) OR the plastic/nylon friction part is for the other side. Try swapping them.
Now rebuild the rear mech lever. If it keeps slipping it needs more friction. More friction = another shim / spacer putting on before tightening I have spares here, just need a PM with an address in, and its on its way I won't tell anyone we cheated if you don't
shim = part F or G.
TIP 3 Try swapping the tightening nuts from 1 side to the other. To the eye they are the same part, but to the bosses there might be a subtle difference, enough to allow friction to occur.
Hope things work out for you Betty, my best to you, yours Laz.
PS: I am very happy that someone like you won the bike, it will be a beauty for sure once up and running, and be in excellent hands
Edit: on your pic you have marked L for the R, and R for the L. If your pic is correct, your part A's need to swap sides If its just your markings on the pic that are wrong ie you know the above already, then you are up against the issue of part A being for a different type of boss. I remembered when out riding before what it was that caught me out, it was my own part A. Some pass right over the boss, and some seat on the boss. This is where the extra height comes from that stops the tightening screw doing its job. Had this issue on my Paganini fitting synchro's in place of friction. Luckily I had bits to "make it fit". Twas only the R hand side that caused issues Later Betty, yours Laz.