the unofficially cool MTB drop bar thread

development_cycle":yhynds53 said:

Wanted to keep the V's I already have really. Wasn't intended to be a dropper so have loads of bits already for a standard mtb set up

Click to expand...

Am using V levers from Dia-Compe with LX levers with bar end shifters.

Using road STI causes headaches with front mech shifting if using MTB parts as cable pull, reach and leverage vary.

Cantis and STI are fine as there are loads of methods for cabling but for V brakes, its travel agent time.

You're kind of missing the whole point if you're using STI shifters/levers in my opinion. Your hands would be in the wrong place when you're shifting. I know shifter perches are hard to come by but bar end shifters work great too.

The Ibis has rm-3 bars which really doesn't work well with shifter mounts.



I would probably swap to rm-2 bars like the Salsa at some point.



The problem with a lot of the set ups in this thread is that as somebody way back in page 2 or 3 mentioned....you have to get the drops of the bars up like where your flat bars would be so that's why LD or Salsa P10 stems are perfect. Looks a bit goofy but if you tried it, you would see how comfortable and natural it feels.

If it looks like a road bike set up, it's really not the ideal set up. The Ibis is not great since the stem is short. The Salsa is fantastic.

Thanks for the detail shots, some good ideas there. Loving the black cotton bar tape - really suits it.

This is a 1985-ish Marinoni Moose that I've been building up with drop bars, took my second ride on it yesterday and nearly froze to death, but it's fun and works well. The build is still 'in progress' so no final tape on the bars and cables have not been cut to length, etc. The long wheelbase is very stable in the snow....it's a tank. Triple-pulley ARX rear derailleur requires a longer chain!



For shifting, I decided to reinvent the wheel. I wanted to use Suntour XC thumbies (that will be the primary build group on the bike), but I wanted them in the drops somehow. I ended up making my own bases and attaching them to the levers:





So far it's working better than expected, I still have some spacing issues to work out as the shift levers are somewhat in the way in the middle gears-the shifter body needs to move away from the brake body a couple more centimeters. I was surprised to find I can still ride on the hoods, my thumb follows the curve of the shifter perfectly. Rear shifting is stiff, I'll need to find a way to get friction out of the system somehow.



Front brake cable routing was an issue-I can't use a stem/headset cable stop (not enough steerer on the fork), so I adapted a V-brake noodle. Cable pull is smooth, no issues.



I need to spend more time in the saddle before I'm 100% sold on the riding position-right now it seems like the bars should be a bit higher. That's just fit though,the riding position is surprisingly natural, and it somehow doesn't feel like a road bike. I'm sold!

Some very cool recent posts. As you were.

Ti Gravel Grinder at sunrise

Lately, I have been riding more, wrenching less, and practicing N-3+1. Here is +1.

I have been intrigued by some of the new "Gravel Grinders" on the market, particularly the Salsa Ti Vaya. So, before I dropped serious cash on the Vaya, I wanted to see what I could come up with. Besides, it's more fun that way and keeps me from engaging in antisocial behavior.

So, I began searching for just the right Ti MTB frame. For a drop bar setup, it needed to be a fairly large, older frame (shorter TT) built for a rigid fork (more HT). This really put me in the late 80's and early 90's (C&V).

I finally found the right frame -- a 1990 Russian frame manufactured for a Dutch bike company. The very kind and knowledgeable Dutch seller described the heritage to me as follows:


The frame arrived last week and I just finished the build. The components are a combination of old and new that I like and had around. The design is really function driven. My most specific design detail was to stick with the threaded fork so I could use a tall (VO) stem adapter with threadless stems. The combination of several inches of useful stem plus a choice of threadless stems of different lengths and angles gives me a great deal of fit flexibility for different conditions.

I am also considering whether it would be possible to convert the bike to 700 wheels so I could pool different wheel/tire/cassette combinations with my cyclocross bike.

Does anyone make long reach cantis that would work for the conversion or how about V-brakes.

At any rate, it's hit 60 degrees here and I'm out the door to grind.

Have a great weekend.

RFC

wow.
can't answer your questions, but I just want to say that THAT LOOKS FANTASTIC - well done.

My Drop Bar MTB

This is obviously built more for the mean streets than the mud and rocks, at least without a tire change, but hopefully some will appreciate it. The frame is most likely a Merlin as indicated by the serial number, but Litespeed remains a possibility. The Huffy decals were a nice touch I think

Sorry...it wouldn't let me post in the first message:












Anyway, as can be seen in the photos, there are a lot of similarities between what RFC did and what I did. He actually helped inspire me to keep this frame rather than flipping it...which definitely ended up a fortuitous decision. The bike is quite quick handling for its wheelbase, light and easy to move in and out of the house, pretty near indestructible and a whole lot of fun!

Aaron - that looks great: any more pictures with the dirt tyres? I like those shifters, they look easier to use than bar-end shifters. How do you get on with them?