Show us your homemade tools
- Thread starter gerryattrick
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JediPaddler
Retro Guru
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I've posted pic before but this is my truing stand based on Roger Musson's book. Also made a nipple driver.
paddlingpool":3cdis217 said:MADJEZ":3cdis217 said:Homemade headset cup remover, helps to have a Dad who's a
retired engineer.
Used it today, works a treat. Cost me a cup of tea.
What size copper piping did you use?
At the current cost of copper you might be cheaper buying a real one
Minty Sauce
Retrobike Rider
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WD Pro":1zeelerh said:Headset press from my post above in use :
Worked a treat
Crown race tool made from two pieces of plastic plumbing pipe :
I sleeved the end to help stop it splitting and chamfered it a bit internally :
So it fits a king race perfectly :
Also worked a treat
WD
Hmmmm, really like the look of that.......
What are the bearings for inbetween the washers and nuts, was it costly to make?
Really interested in this as I have a Chris King headset on its way to me and have never fitted an expensive headset before and want to do it right, and yours looks the perfect tool for the job
Thanks for the comments
This is probably a better picture of the bits :
Yes, the bits were quite cheap :
• M10 Stainless nuts : pennies (and I already had them in my stash - check eBay)
• M10 Stainless washers : pennies (already had as above)
• M10 Stainless studding : I think about a fiver off eBay (for three lengths)
• 2 x thrust washers : £2 each of eBay
• The ally bits and large stainless washers : I would have made these myself but as I have lost access to a lathe :-( I used the services of broardy (he's posted above), but I got them with a batch of stuff so I couldn't comment on individual cost, you had better contact him directly ;-)
I (like most things) probably over thought it but things I considered :
• Long ally bodies to provide even / parallel pull by location on the studding.
• Close tolerance on the bore to help above.
• Close tolerance on the OD to suit the ID of the King - better location.
• Stainless washers on the ally parts so the Ti didn't dig in (use without for ally headsets so as not to damage ano).
• Thrust washers on the ends so the turning motion of the shaft nuts doesn't rotate the cups before they start to bite in the frame - it would be rude for the King logo not to face perfectly forward ...
• Double nut on the top locked together so I could use a socket on the wrench (less chance of slipping and dinging the top tube) - I will get these tig welded next time I have some done.
• Single nut on the bottom - this is the one I tightend with a ratchet ring spanner, always pull away from the frame ;-)
The crown race press is made from offcuts. If I remember rightly the main piece is imperial and the collar is metric. By chance they are a near perfect fit so a bit of glue bonds them solid. The cap is to try and top the top splitting when you whack it (it worked). I used a rubber dead blow hammer.
Hope that helps
WD
This is probably a better picture of the bits :
Yes, the bits were quite cheap :
• M10 Stainless nuts : pennies (and I already had them in my stash - check eBay)
• M10 Stainless washers : pennies (already had as above)
• M10 Stainless studding : I think about a fiver off eBay (for three lengths)
• 2 x thrust washers : £2 each of eBay
• The ally bits and large stainless washers : I would have made these myself but as I have lost access to a lathe :-( I used the services of broardy (he's posted above), but I got them with a batch of stuff so I couldn't comment on individual cost, you had better contact him directly ;-)
I (like most things
) probably over thought it but things I considered :• Long ally bodies to provide even / parallel pull by location on the studding.
• Close tolerance on the bore to help above.
• Close tolerance on the OD to suit the ID of the King - better location.
• Stainless washers on the ally parts so the Ti didn't dig in (use without for ally headsets so as not to damage ano).
• Thrust washers on the ends so the turning motion of the shaft nuts doesn't rotate the cups before they start to bite in the frame - it would be rude for the King logo not to face perfectly forward ...
• Double nut on the top locked together so I could use a socket on the wrench (less chance of slipping and dinging the top tube) - I will get these tig welded next time I have some done.
• Single nut on the bottom - this is the one I tightend with a ratchet ring spanner, always pull away from the frame ;-)
The crown race press is made from offcuts. If I remember rightly the main piece is imperial and the collar is metric. By chance they are a near perfect fit so a bit of glue bonds them solid. The cap is to try and top the top splitting when you whack it (it worked). I used a rubber dead blow hammer.
Hope that helps
WD
Minty Sauce
Retrobike Rider
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Thanks for tha WD Pro. Do you have any dimensions for the turned alloy incertion piece? Thanks.
