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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 4:21 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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sherlylock wrote:
Retro Spud wrote:
Impressive deconstruction... (forensic Pathology)

Surprised at how many bits that cable broke down into. Just need to try and find some suitable replacement and then have a crack at silver soldering!



Have you tried Venhill - they stock a lot of parts like these https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components.html


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:22 am 
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Location: Saaa'fend, Essex
Retro Spud wrote:
sherlylock wrote:
Retro Spud wrote:
Impressive deconstruction... (forensic Pathology)

Surprised at how many bits that cable broke down into. Just need to try and find some suitable replacement and then have a crack at silver soldering!



Have you tried Venhill - they stock a lot of parts like these https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components.html


Oooo......good link, thanks for that. After a measure up it turns out the 2 cables from the splitter are a smaller dia to the main cable into it.....but only by a small amount which seems odd - not sure why it was done like that. Looks like I should be able to order appropriate cabling from that site though - thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 11:19 pm 
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Location: Saaa'fend, Essex
I read a comment on classiclightweights that Resilion cantilevers had the same profile as more modern v-brake inserts......so I bought some.

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They fit ok - are slightly shorter and have less "meat" on them than the originals but are new and not hard and brittle like the fibrax inserts that came with my brakes. They're a good starting point on the journey to getting the brakes working again......

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Spotted a nice advert for Resilion brakes that someone posted on facebook recently. Jack looks happy with the brakes on the tandem......Jill not so much.

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Started cleaning up the frame corrosion - lots and lots of little blisters in the nickel plating. Using a fairly gentle wire brush on a drill then some wet and dry I've started removing the blisters whilst trying to preserve as much of the nickel plating as possible. It's done a damn fine job of protecting the frame for 81 years so be nice to leave it in place where I can.

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Worst bit is on the "drainpipe" tube at the bottom of the frame......

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Loving the lugs on this.......

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The rear bottom bracket casting with the thin section to allow the rear wheel and crank to overlap is a really lovely thing.....

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Not sure where I'm going with the frame resto yet......it might be that I rub it back enough to remove the corrosion and then overpaint and try to replicate the original green flamboyant paint job.....masking off the chrome dropouts and fork crown as they're quite reasonable. Depends how good I can make the "patina" look......


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:07 am 
BoTM | rBoTM | rider
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You need to polish the corroded steel where the nickel plating has gone, then when you spray over it will hardly notice.. you might have already got your head around this, so sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs..... :roll:

last time I did this (pre-membership of RetroBike) I first treated the corroded areas with a rust treatment, I would now recommend Evaporust, then scrubb the areas with a green washing up souring sponge (less aggressive than Scotch pads) using MAAS concentrated metal polish, then again with a soft cloth to put some shine into the bare steel..
Beauty of this is the MAAS will protect the raw steel for months (if it takes you that long to do the whole thing), then when you're ready to spray, a couple of good rub downs with an appropriate spirit,thinners or petrol, then a final wipe with alcohol and you're ready to spray on a candy/flamboyant/translucent paint of your choice... it will look the nuts :xmas-big-grin:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 2:01 pm 
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Peachy! wrote:
You need to polish the corroded steel where the nickel plating has gone, then when you spray over it will hardly notice.. you might have already got your head around this, so sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs..... :roll:

last time I did this (pre-membership of RetroBike) I first treated the corroded areas with a rust treatment, I would now recommend Evaporust, then scrubb the areas with a green washing up souring sponge (less aggressive than Scotch pads) using MAAS concentrated metal polish, then again with a soft cloth to put some shine into the bare steel..
Beauty of this is the MAAS will protect the raw steel for months (if it takes you that long to do the whole thing), then when you're ready to spray, a couple of good rub downs with an appropriate spirit,thinners or petrol, then a final wipe with alcohol and you're ready to spray on a candy/flamboyant/translucent paint of your choice... it will look the nuts :xmas-big-grin:

No teaching of egg sucking there Peachy - top tips - in fact its conformation of what I had in mind but wasn't sure whether it was a suitable way around the problem of part nickel plated/part corroded frame. I'm impressed at how smooth it is possible to make the corroded parts - the main lower tube that is really bad has cleaned up nicely and I reckon it'd paint up without too much filling and priming. The nickel plating really has done it's job......for an 81 year old frame which no longer has the original paint on it its remarkably sound!

I've got a spray gun and access to a suitable air line at work so I reckon an etch primer/filler primer/silver/tinted lacquer/decals and final top lacquer coat is on the cards (plenty of rubbing down in between)......haven't sprayed anything for a while but I'm sure the knack will return!?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 7:37 pm 
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Was there much fettling to the new brake pads to make them fit?


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 10:51 pm 
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dan73uk wrote:
Was there much fettling to the new brake pads to make them fit?


Nope - the new pads pushed in as if they were designed to fit. They are just marginally short for the holder...

I haven't (can't) set them up yet and test them but it looks like they should be OK. Will obviously report back as and when I have a new cable made up and and get a functioning brake.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 12:40 am 
BoTM | rBoTM | rider
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What tyres are you planning on using?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 6:33 pm 
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Peachy! wrote:
What tyres are you planning on using?


Not a clue as yet - haven't really thought that far ahead. They're 26" wheels so I'm assuming they will be a fairly common size. Will check the size later and have a browse on't internet later.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 10:56 pm 
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Location: Saaa'fend, Essex
sherlylock wrote:
Peachy! wrote:
What tyres are you planning on using?


Not a clue as yet - haven't really thought that far ahead. They're 26" wheels so I'm assuming they will be a fairly common size. Will check the size later and have a browse on't internet later.


So - 26 x 1 1/4 (32-597).

Turns out I have a huge choice of either Schwalbe HS130 (same as the rear tyre currently on the bike) or Kendas.

I'll be buying one Schwalbe then!

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tyres/schwa ... nch-32597/


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