Full service Parts list help

Hi All,
I bought my my Koga Miyata Road Winner on here in 2011 and its remained unchanged except for Bontrager Race Hardcase tires.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=149933
Recently I have been commuting and enjoying the ride, but the brakes are weak, cables frayed and chain looks a bit rusty. I started looking for cable kits, and found the options very confusing, can you guys help me put together a service / parts list? I don't want to spend a fortune, or put junk parts on. I am a service newbie, this is what I think I need. Can you recommend;
Cable kit for brakes and gears
brake blocks
Bar wrap
Chain
Lubricants for chain and bearings etc.
More comfortable seat.
I am thinking the new seat and cables would be white for a fresher look?
Anything I should buy while I'm at it?
Many thanks
Ian

evozero":1y2tijz0 said:

Anything I should buy while I'm at it?
Many thanks
Ian

Click to expand...

if you are buying a new chain consider a new cassette/freewheel as well as they both wear in together, new chain on an old cassette (or the other way round) will often slip under pressure....

Griff

Re:

I can't make any specific recommendations for the first four items on your list. I tend to use the cheapest generic stuff I can find/tolerate, which for me is probably indistinguishable in performance/longevity from the alternatives.

I'm not a believer in bike-specific lubricants, either. My tub of Castrol LM grease was probably brand new about the same time as your bike, and hasn't (quite) run out yet, even though every bearing, thread, cable run, stem and seatpost on my bikes has had its quota. That and a can of 3in1 oil is my entire inventory of luricants.

Others might have different ideas, probably better ones.

If you are truly a 'service newbie', you might need some tools too- I'd guess 8, 10, 12mm spanners, 4, 5, 6mm hex keys at least, a chain tool... that's just for starters, although it'll probably be largely sufficient for your stated list of servicing jobs. You are bound to find some nut or bolt that needs some other size though- or a duplicate, or a thin spanner, or a socket spanner- that is just sods law...
..and you are going to need something to cut the cables to length- inners and outers..

Thanks for the advice so far.
I have maintained track cars in the past so do have tools, and some Castrol LM grease
Never tried any bike maintenance, but want to give my bike a service and see if new cables make a difference to the brakes.
Commuting in traffic at the moment is a little scary with weak brakes, my old MTB has Shimano V brakes and they are much better.
It has Shimano Golden Arrow brake set, are they any good, or should I consider reto fitting modern brakes?
Are these cable kits ok?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarks-ZERO-G- ... +cable+kit

Thanks
Ian

squirt a little oil inside the outer brake cable before fitting the inner cable plus Kool Stop pads will make a big difference to stopping power but remember that older side pull brakes were never as strong as the modern dual pivots......I've used Mafac Racer centre pulls for many years on my vintage steeds and found them to be fine, good luck

Griff

Replace whatever feels worn. There is no defined service parts list for a bike. You check everything and service what can be serviced and replace what is worn.

Thanks for the advice so far.
I have ordered Jagwire brake and gear cable kit.
Bar tape
new seat.

Thanks for the Kool Stop pads tip, not heard of these before, just trying to work out which model is the one to buy for my brakes?
Cheers
Ian

Do you have steel rims? The main problem with fitting modern DP brake (shimano 5700 have the right cable pull requirements for your levers) is your bike requires hex hut fitting brake. To use modern brakes you need to drill for recessed allen key brakes or dismantle the brakes and fit longer threaded bolts to convert them to hex hut fitting. Drilling is fairly easy.

If you have steel rims change the wheels and your brakes will work.

Re:

if you get some inserts you should be able to fit them into your existing brake block holders and keep the style correct. But you'll have to measure you current inserts to check which ones will give the best fit:

http://www.vintagevelo.co.uk/product-tag/kool-stop/

with Kool Stop the black ones are for general riding and the salmon ones give better braking in the wet. Either will make a big difference.

Re:

Commuting in traffic at the moment is a little scary with weak brakes, my old MTB has Shimano V brakes and they are much better.
It has Shimano Golden Arrow brake set, are they any good, or should I consider reto fitting modern brakes?

Click to expand...

You could probably do a bit better than Golden Arrow even with period sidepulls- Campag., mid to top-range Modolo or Dia Compe or similar, but I wouldn't expect anything, period or modern, to compare with V brakes in ferocity.

At any rate, try to choose the most friction-free cable route you can between lever and caliper, which really means letting the cables find their own routes, which I guess is easier said than done with 'aero' levers..